Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall
|
Asahi T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Astral Traveller T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Culp's Fault T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Dark Matter T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Don't Panic, It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
|
|
Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
|
|
Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
Mighty Mouse S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
|
|
Monks in the Gym T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
|
|
Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
|
|
Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
|
|
Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
|
|
Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Red Arete, The S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
|
|
Red Dihedral T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
|
|
Shiva's Dance T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
|
|
Stigmata T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
|
|
Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Turnabout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Type: | Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Josh Wharton and Phil Gruber |
| Page Views: | 1,441 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Phil Gruber on Jan 30, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Access Issue: Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year
Details
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
Description
Although technically 5 pitches of mixed sport and trad, this route is all about the two fantastic pitches of hard sport climbing in the middle of the route. These pitches tackle the stunning overhanging arete to the left of the Red Dihedral, and are both solid 5.13c. Overall, the route feels harder than the climbing on any individual pitch given its airy nature and the approach to get there.
P1: 5.6, 80’. Climb the corner as per P1 of The Red Arete to a two-bolt anchor.
P2: 5.9, 80’. 4th Class up and right across a blocky ledge, and then climb up a slab past 3 bolts and a medium-size wire placement to the anchor shared by the Red Dihedral.
P3: 5.13c, 70’. Climb the overhanging arete starting on the left, then move right and finally back left and over the lip. This continuous pitch involves a lot of slapping and palming on the blunt arete. A bosun’s chair is nice for the hanging belay at the top of the pitch.
P4: 5.13c, 100’. Climb past three bolts up and left and then back right to the base of an overhanging crack. Climb the overhanging crack until it ends at a downward-facing rock tooth that leads back to the arete. Finagle your way up this difficult section to a shake, and then climb out the steep overhang to the left to the final dramatic overhanging arete that leads to easier ground above. Work up and slightly left to the anchor.
P5: 5.11c, 70’. Traverse right and climb the right side of the final arete up steep terrain until the climbing angle and difficulty eases. The final 20 feet of this pitch is only 5.8, but it’s steep and unprotected.
A couple of obvious challenges remain available for the strong and adventurous climber, including linking pitches 3 and 4 and establishing a direct finish on pitch 5.
Josh Wharton not only had the vision for this route, he was also smart enough to recruit a dummy like me to do a lot of the grunt work to establish it.
3 Comments