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Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall

Asahi T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Culp's Fault T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don'’t Panic It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mighty Mouse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Dihedral T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Shiva's Dance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Stigmata T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, TR, 110 ft
FA: D. Breashears, S. Mammen, 1975
Page Views: 1,717 total, 12/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 7, 2006 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details
Private Property issues Details

Description

This climb, along with Perilous Journey, is one of the most famous mind control routes created by the gifted and famous, David Breashears, aka Kloeberdanz Kid. This route is amazing considering the era, the equipment available, the consequences of error.... Most mortals (like me) will experience this route on TR, if they choose to venture here. A lead would probably be soloing.

There is a picture of Breashears's FA on p. 94 of Climb! by Jeff Achey, Dudley Chelton, & Bob Godfrey. There, it is described that Breashears returned shortly after the FA of Perilous Journey in hopes of finding a more demanding route but was disappointed to find it "slightly easier and more secure, and with better protection (just enought to avert a ground fall.)" In a discussion about these two routes in 1976, Steve Wunsch described both these routes "like real jumps into the future to me." Jim Erickson replied, "They sure do. You'd jump right into eternity if you fell off either of 'em." If anyone can provide details of the history of this route's first ascent, that would be a wonderful enrichment to this website.

Apparently, the route is named in part for the rock/crystal embedded just above its roof.

As for the climbing, this route is quite challenging, and even on TR, it felt quite stiff for 11a (old Boulder Climbs South) or 11b (new Eldorado Canyon. This route is sustained for its first half & is fairly difficult to decipher the sequences without beta or chalk. Interestingly, W. Prehm's
denotes this as 11d.

Note, the beginning of the route is located in a lush garden with plenty of poison ivy.

Location

This historic route is located 2 routes right from Red Dihedral's P1. It starts right of the stray bolt of the unknown climb 11a? to its left. It starts left of Perilous Journey. It starts below a roof and works up onto a smooth face just right of a prominent arete.

Protection

According to Rossiter's guidebook, a #2 & #2.5 Friend for the groove above the crystal is the pro. Hmmm...Camalots #1 or #2 don't fit this groove. This groove appears to be a very shallow, flaring groove that might be intimidating to trust. Higher, a yellow & red Alien can be placed just next to the ledge near mid-height. There is a downward-driven Lost Arrow above the ledge to the right. Just before topping out, you can get a red Alien & wire.

To TR, you can belay from the ground with a 60m rope off the Red Dihedral P1 anchor with the red Alien, Lost Arrow, yellow Alien for directionals.

Photos

EDJ
Eldorado Springs, Colorado
EDJ   Eldorado Springs, Colorado
I can report that this pitch is actually ok to lead. The gear was not perfect but skillfully placed and not skipped where it presented itself. The feeling was of excitement as opposed to fear. I would tell my friends to do this one, a classic for sure! Oct 7, 2011