Avg: 2 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||George Hurley, Bob Culp, 1965|
|Page Views:||717 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Ivan Rezucha on Oct 1, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Click herebouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for more details.
Rossiter says to start Eagle's Bier in a left facing dihedral to the left of Lifestream. Erickson says to start in a right-facing dihedral. We climbed the first short, left-facing dihedral left of the start of Lifestream. This dihedral has a pin and may be the climb that Rossiter calls "Roof" 5.10, but the corner felt like 5.8 to me. There are two right-facing corners between what we climbed and Lifestream. The rightmost looks hard with little or no gear. The next corner to the left looked better, but grungy and a little loose. Perhaps that's the correct start. The best and most direct start would be P1 of Lifestream. The crux is low 5.10 protected by a bolt, but the start is a little dicey.
After whichever initial corner you climb, work your way right to the base of the large dihedral. After the initial left-facing corner I moved right on a loose ledge past a tree and then up past a very loose ledge via an obvious but sparsely protected thin crack system. There's a good gear belay in a horizontal flake/crack to the left. Save a #2/gold and #1/red Camalot for the belay.
P2: Climb up to the left of the low angle corner then move right to the main corner. Climb the wide crack via underclings and some body work. A #4 Camalot can be leap frogged. When you reach the red band, traverse right to a good ledge near the Lifestream arête, about 20' above the Lifestream anchors.
P3: This pitch is intimidating, but it turned out to be fun, easy and wild. Undercling a slot and move up to a large roof. Traverse right and turn the roof at a nice crack to the right of a wide crack through the roof. Continue to the top. It looks possible after the starting moves to move left into a V-slot, but right looked more classic.
Bring a 6-8' piece of webbing to back up the thread anchor. You need to do one rappel from the top to get to the regular raps. First you rap to a large ledge at the top of Beagle's Ear. You then continue down, on the same rappel, down to very near the standard rap anchors.