Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: George Hurley, Bob Culp, 1965
Page Views: 303 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 1, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Private Property issues Details
Access Issue: Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details

Description

Eagle's Bier is the huge, left-facing corner left of Lifestream and Beagle's Ear. Despite being one of the biggest features on Mickey Mouse, Eagle's Bier is somewhat obscure. Not that obscure though, since there was chalk on it last week when Luke and I did it. The lack of a good first pitch may turn some away.

Rossiter says to start Eagle's Bier in a left facing dihedral to the left of Lifestream. Erickson says to start in a right-facing dihedral. We climbed the first short, left-facing dihedral left of the start of Lifestream. This dihedral has a pin and may be the climb that Rossiter calls "Roof" 5.10, but the corner felt like 5.8 to me. There are two right-facing corners between what we climbed and Lifestream. The rightmost looks hard with little or no gear. The next corner to the left looked better, but grungy and a little loose. Perhaps that's the correct start. The best and most direct start would be P1 of Lifestream. The crux is low 5.10 protected by a bolt, but the start is a little dicey.

After whichever initial corner you climb, work your way right to the base of the large dihedral. After the initial left-facing corner I moved right on a loose ledge past a tree and then up past a very loose ledge via an obvious but sparsely protected thin crack system. There's a good gear belay in a horizontal flake/crack to the left. Save a #2/gold and #1/red Camalot for the belay.

P2: Climb up to the left of the low angle corner then move right to the main corner. Climb the wide crack via underclings and some body work. A #4 Camalot can be leap frogged. When you reach the red band, traverse right to a good ledge near the Lifestream arĂȘte, about 20' above the Lifestream anchors.

P3: This pitch is intimidating, but it turned out to be fun, easy and wild. Undercling a slot and move up to a large roof. Traverse right and turn the roof at a nice crack to the right of a wide crack through the roof. Continue to the top. It looks possible after the starting moves to move left into a V-slot, but right looked more classic.

Location

Locate the Beagle's Ear crack system left of the scramble approach to Perversion. Lifestream is the arĂȘte left of that. Eagle's Bier is the large corner capped by red roofs just left of Lifestream.

Protection

Medium nuts and a single set of cams to a #4 Camalot should do it. A single 60m rope will get you down, but double ropes will save you a rappel.

Bring a 6-8' piece of webbing to back up the thread anchor. You need to do one rappel from the top to get to the regular raps. First you rap to a large ledge at the top of Beagle's Ear. You then continue down, on the same rappel, down to very near the standard rap anchors.

Photos

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