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Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall

Asahi T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Culp's Fault T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don'’t Panic It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mighty Mouse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Dihedral T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Shiva's Dance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Stigmata T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Bob Wade, Bob Culp, 1975
Page Views: 438 total, 4/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 25, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details
Private Property issues Details

Description

This is an appealing route when viewed from the trudge up along the base of Mickey Mouse. We finally did it due to its early morning sun and high gravity--not really wanting to walk further up the hill. Unfortunately, the red band ceiling is pretty grim with loose holds, mediocre gear and difficult moves. The first half of this route is very good on excellent and interesting rock with somewhat sparse and thoughtful gear.

As you approach the red band, get in whatever good gear you can. At the red band, there's an inobvious horizontal slot on the left that takes a yellow Alien (red Zero). There's a very small cam placement in decent rock on the right. There may be other placements in the looser rock. As you start to pull the roof there is a tight #0.75 Camalot placement in good rock. Without that I may have backed off. Even with it, it's dicey, because if it pulls, the gear below may also pull.

Above the roof easier and safer climbing lead to a good stance at a tree. From the top you can scramble a very short distance straight back to the Garden of Stone area and do, e.g., R.N.R., 9+ or L.O.O.P., 11a.

Location

Just uphill from Industrial Wall is a slabby area bound on the left by the short "Prow" buttress. There are two obvious lines up the slabby area. The left line is Oblique Streak.

To descend you can either scramble back to the Garden of Stone area on the East Ridge and then down to the tunnel or you can do a two-rope rap from the tree at the top of the route. The pull down may be difficult due to the length. Bring webbing and rings in case the slings we left on the tree are gone.

Protection

I used double Camalots from 0.4 to #1, a single #2 and #3, plus a full set of micro cams. Wires from brass to big. Many full length slings if doing this in one pitch.

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