Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft (55 m)|
|FA:||Bob Wade, Bob Culp, 1975|
|Page Views:||657 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Ivan Rezucha on Oct 25, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
As you approach the red band, get in whatever good gear you can. At the red band, there's an inobvious horizontal slot on the left that takes a yellow Alien (red Zero). There's a very small cam placement in decent rock on the right. There may be other placements in the looser rock. As you start to pull the roof there is a tight #0.75 Camalot placement in good rock. Without that I may have backed off. Even with it, it's dicey, because if it pulls, the gear below may also pull.
Above the roof easier and safer climbing lead to a good stance at a tree. From the top you can scramble a very short distance straight back to the Garden of Stone area and do, e.g., R.N.R., 9+ or L.O.O.P., 11a.
To descend you can either scramble back to the Garden of Stone area on the East Ridge and then down to the tunnel or you can do a two-rope rap from the tree at the top of the route. The pull down may be difficult due to the length. Bring webbing and rings in case the slings we left on the tree are gone.