Type: Trad, Sport, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: R. & J. Rossiter
Page Views: 3,116 total · 12/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

On Micky Mouse Wall, almost directly below the Red Dihedral, you will come to a series of bulging flakes rising up and to the left, below a short, right-facing corner. You will see a bolt in this corner, some 30+ feet off of the ground.

P1: 5.10c, 130 feet. Climb up the flakes on good holds, but some questionable rock. Clip the bolt on the corner with a 1' sling and head left onto the face past the arete. This is the first crux. Face climb up past 5 more bolts, which are liberally spaced. You climb on the left side of the arete and on the face for quite a way, passing another crux. Near the top, you will break even farther left to reach a lower angle crack system which is unprotected but easy. Belay up top from gear, some 20' to the climber's left of a small tree.

P2: 5.10a, 45 feet. Look directly up to see a thin seam which becomes a left-facing corner with a roof. Go up the seam/corner to the roof then step to the right into a nice section of handcrack. Reach the next ledge & belay from solid gear.

To descend walk left (West) to a set of cold shuts and rap 80 to a lower ledge. On the lower ledge, walk left (West) and scramble down at the end of that ledge to another set of cold shuts. Rap 80' to the ground.

Protection Suggest change

The first pitch is bolted, but that's 6 bolts in 130 feet. The first is 35' up and above some 5.10a climbing.... A #4 Camalot and a few stoppers could be placed below it to eliminate what is otherwise a runout.

The anchor above the first pitch will be yours to build. You should have a cordalette & mixed gear. The rock is not so hot on the ledge.

P2 is a thin crack and a few hand-jams. Stoppers (some thin will be helpful) and tiny TCUs + a 2.5" cam is the pro. Again, you build your own anchors, so have a few pieces with you.

Photos

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