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Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall

Asahi T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Culp's Fault T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don'’t Panic It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mighty Mouse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Dihedral T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Shiva's Dance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Stigmata T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: R. & J. Rossiter
Page Views: 2,040 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Private Property issues Details
Access Issue: Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details

Description [Suggest Change]

On Micky Mouse Wall, almost directly below the Red Dihedral, you will come to a series of bulging flakes rising up and to the left, below a short, right-facing corner. You will see a bolt in this corner, some 30+ feet off of the ground.

P1: 5.10c, 130 feet. Climb up the flakes on good holds, but some questionable rock. Clip the bolt on the corner with a 1' sling and head left onto the face past the arete. This is the first crux. Face climb up past 5 more bolts, which are liberally spaced. You climb on the left side of the arete and on the face for quite a way, passing another crux. Near the top, you will break even farther left to reach a lower angle crack system which is unprotected but easy. Belay up top from gear, some 20' to the climber's left of a small tree.

P2: 5.10a, 45 feet. Look directly up to see a thin seam which becomes a left-facing corner with a roof. Go up the seam/corner to the roof then step to the right into a nice section of handcrack. Reach the next ledge & belay from solid gear.

To descend walk left (West) to a set of cold shuts and rap 80 to a lower ledge. On the lower ledge, walk left (West) and scramble down at the end of that ledge to another set of cold shuts. Rap 80' to the ground.

Protection [Suggest Change]

The first pitch is bolted, but that's 6 bolts in 130 feet. The first is 35' up and above some 5.10a climbing.... A #4 Camalot and a few stoppers could be placed below it to eliminate what is otherwise a runout.

The anchor above the first pitch will be yours to build. You should have a cordalette & mixed gear. The rock is not so hot on the ledge.

P2 is a thin crack and a few hand-jams. Stoppers (some thin will be helpful) and tiny TCUs + a 2.5" cam is the pro. Again, you build your own anchors, so have a few pieces with you.
Asashi was chopped. Rossiter put the bolts back in. Oct 13, 2001
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Beware of poison ivy at the base of this route. Oct 7, 2002
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
A three star route when the abundant poison ivy dries up. Oct 12, 2002
Ken Heiser
Boulder, CO
Ken Heiser   Boulder, CO
I did this route yesterday for the first time. I brought the rack and put in several pieces to [augment] the bolts. For me, even on the upper section of pitch one this would be very runout without placing gear. A #4 Camalot was a key [piece] on the lower trad part. I really liked this route and found it to be very diverse and enjoyable. What we got in exchange for the long hike on Sunday 8/15/04 was a full day at Mickey Mouse with no other parties on the cliff. Aug 16, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Under Perilous Journey, AC says, "Asashi was chopped. Rossiter put the bolts back in." Is this true? What was the controversy? Oct 16, 2004
Luke Clarke
Luke Clarke   Golden
Great route. I give it three stars. Loose rock is low and won't trouble those used to climbing Eldo. The #4 Camalot is perfect for the hand traverse and you'll want a couple nuts or cams in the 1-inch and smaller range to protect between the well-spaced bolts. Second pitch tougher than it looks. Oct 18, 2004
Joyce and I put up Asahi during the summer of 1988 with just 3 bolts on the first pitch. The first bolt was originally 30 or 40 feet off the ground (where it is now), but just left of the arete. The bolts and hangers were removed/stolen the next summer (ironically) by two individuals who a few years later obtained a rock drill and began putting up their own bolt protected face climbs. Humans are a strange species, no? I replaced the 3 bolts and hangers within a week of their removal. By the way, the bolts were not "chopped." They were Rawls and were simply backed out with a wrench.

I returned to Asahi many times with a variety of excellent climbers. No one wanted to lead it with just three bolts in the first 130 feet, so I eventually relented and added three more bolts circa 1997. Joyce and I were mentally and physically conditioned by routes such as Wide Country, X-M, Rain, Disguise, the Metamorphosis, King's X, the Diving Board and the Naked Edge, so 3 bolts in 130 feet of excellent face climbing did not seem in the least under-protected. Perilous Journey 20 feet to the left was more difficult and had no pro at all, so what was the problem?

For a broader view of the conflicted mentality and events of the day, read the Author's Perspective on page 4, ROCK CLIMBING THE FLATIRONS, Chockstone, A Falcon Guide, 1999 by Richard Rossiter. Sep 20, 2006
Ross Keller
Parker, CO
Ross Keller   Parker, CO
With supplemental gear, this doesn't rate an R. A worthwhile route. Nov 9, 2006
David Yount
Seattle, WA
David Yount   Seattle, WA
Asahi 5.10B *** G - Mickey Mouse Wall - Eldorado Canyon - Colorado

The first pitch has a friendly buffet of 9+ with a brief spike of 10b passing the arete after the first bolt. I believe I found gear every 8 to 10 feet, and with no ledges enroute I would rate this "G" as completely safe for falling on.

I was somewhat relieved when I found bolt #2 hidden just over a large handhold as I was gunning ever upward for bolt #3. Oct 9, 2008
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
I did this yesterday for the second time. The first crux seemed quite easy, perhaps since I knew to stay high. There was another confusing crux higher moving right to the arête. Both Lenny and I thought P2 was as hard or harder than P1. It was definitely more insecure. Sep 20, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
This is a super fun face pitch and not runout at all with some supplemental gear. Nov 26, 2010
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.10c PG13
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.10c PG13
With 6 bolts, the only minor runout is the start. Great route. Aug 21, 2011
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
Another vote for easy 5.10 and G rated. With a handful of gear, this climb sews up very well. 1st pitch has a very short section of harder climbing getting around the arete with slopey but good holds and great feet. Nov 15, 2015

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