Avg: 3.2 from 29 votes
Trad, Sport, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches
|FA:||R. & J. Rossiter|
|Page Views:||2,698 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Oct 5, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Click herebouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for more details.
P1: 5.10c, 130 feet. Climb up the flakes on good holds, but some questionable rock. Clip the bolt on the corner with a 1' sling and head left onto the face past the arete. This is the first crux. Face climb up past 5 more bolts, which are liberally spaced. You climb on the left side of the arete and on the face for quite a way, passing another crux. Near the top, you will break even farther left to reach a lower angle crack system which is unprotected but easy. Belay up top from gear, some 20' to the climber's left of a small tree.
P2: 5.10a, 45 feet. Look directly up to see a thin seam which becomes a left-facing corner with a roof. Go up the seam/corner to the roof then step to the right into a nice section of handcrack. Reach the next ledge & belay from solid gear.
To descend walk left (West) to a set of cold shuts and rap 80 to a lower ledge. On the lower ledge, walk left (West) and scramble down at the end of that ledge to another set of cold shuts. Rap 80' to the ground.
The anchor above the first pitch will be yours to build. You should have a cordalette & mixed gear. The rock is not so hot on the ledge.
P2 is a thin crack and a few hand-jams. Stoppers (some thin will be helpful) and tiny TCUs + a 2.5" cam is the pro. Again, you build your own anchors, so have a few pieces with you.