Type: Trad, TR
FA: George Hurley, Mike Yokel
Page Views: 1,051 total · 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 12, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private Property issues Details
Access Issue: Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details

Description

This is a nice TR or runout lead just left of Shiva's Dance, Monks in the Gym, and Skink's Lip. This follows a shallow, left-facing dihedral to an angling ledge. Move right and up into another, more-difficult dihedral to a ledge. Rappel 70 feet. It is solid for the rating.

Protection

Wires, Aliens, Friends to #3. It is lightly protected.

Photos

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
Old school 9+ for sure. I first climbed this in '78. Young and foolish? Don't remember, but probably so. No cams then, but did have RPs which are the key gear. Perhaps there were a couple of pins, but it was S back then also. Yesterday, I was maxed out repeating this. The shadows from the morning light made the holds and cracks look bigger than they are, so it seemed like this would be a good warmup. Bad choice! From the top of the left crack the gear was brass good for rightward pull, #0 TCU, tiny sideways brass good to the right. Then at the right crack, tiny brass sideways good for nothing. Then tiny brass that pulled through on the first test. A shallow regular nut in the same opening. Then, a decent brass higher than that. Most of these pieces were fair, but having so many just "fair" pieces in a row was really stressful. Double ropes are useful to prevent sideways pulls on the bottom nuts in the right crack. Oct 9, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
This can be easily top roped by climbing the first pitch of Shiva's Dance to the bolts. Place some directionals as you lower down The Offset. Cams from 0.5 (gray) to #2 (gold) Camalots work. The diagonal cracks between The Offset and Shiva's Dance can be climbed at about 5.9, but getting back onto The Offset is difficult. I made a hard move left at the top of the cracks. You may also be able to do a difficult face move straight up to the crux of The Offset. Oct 15, 2010
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.10- R
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.10- R
Definitely felt like 5.10 to me on lead. My partner was able to take an easier variation to the left at the start of the upper seam, but this is impossible if you want to place gear, and you will want to place gear!

The pro on this climb was just enough to keep you safe, off the ground, and urge you upwards. That's not to say the climb wasn't scary though. It was awesomely scary as a fall at the traverse to the next crack would send you on quite a ride.

I placed a 0.5 and 0.75 in the good slot around the middle of the first dihedral, and this ended up being the gear that most likely would protect the traverse as the gear higher consisted of a red C3 in a shallow, horizontal seam (2 lobes engaged, woohoo!) and a large RP in a solution pocket, both of which may have held a dead cat on a still day. Once I reached the next seam though, I was able to get 3 decent small nuts and larger gear thereafter. Amazing climb! Oct 23, 2014
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.10- R
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.10- R
Just did this again today and found it to be slightly easier and better protected than last time, though still solidly "R". At the top of the first corner, I was able to get in a good offset RP that may hold a fall as long as you don't swing too far back left. This was in addition to the small nut keyed into the solution pocket directly above you.

I was able to get two tiny but very solid looking RPs at the base of the next corner. The crux comes directly after this and feels relatively safe, although if you were to fall and pull those two pieces, you'd most likely rip the traverse pieces then deck.... Anyways, after some exciting high stepping and crimping, you're soon on jugs and solid gear and the world is right once again. Nov 15, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+ R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+ R
The Levin book describes the line as 'Exquisite', and I had to figure out what that means, for such a short pitch to get 3 *s in such a stacked area. It means technical and sequential on small holds, but yeah, it's pretty good, but not so much in 80 deg temps in the sun. Do it on a slightly more 'crisp' day when your hands stick and shoes are stiffer. Oct 16, 2016