All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Mountain > Mickey Mouse Wall

Captain Beyond

Name: Captain Beyond
Rating: 3.9

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Asahi T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Astral Traveller T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Culp's Fault T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dark Matter T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Don't Panic, It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
	Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Mighty Mouse S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Monks in the Gym T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
	Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Philanthropic T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Red Arete, The S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
	Red Dihedral T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
	Shiva's Dance T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	Stigmata T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Turnabout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

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Type:	Trad, 5 pitches Fixed Hardware (1)
GPS:	39.91728, -105.28551
FA:	Roger and Bill Briggs, 1974
Page Views:	15,056 total · 50/month
Shared By:	George Bell on Aug 28, 2001
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Private Property issues Details

The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.

Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.

Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.

Access Issue: Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year Details

Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Click here bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for more details.

Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:

bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…

Description

If you like cracks of all widths, try this climb!

P1: Begin 8' left of Culp's Fault. Follow a steep crack through a small roof (10a) and belay after 80'. Note: there is a short wide section near the top of this crack, for which a #4 Camalot can be useful.

P2: Traverse left 20' to the next crack, and head on up to belay on the main ledge with 2 bolts that runs across the wall. Walk left along this ledge. 110'.

P3: Climb a short slab to the base of an obvious, right-facing dihedral with an offwidth crack. This is a very short pitch and involves an unprotected 5.8 move up the slab. Probably some of these first 3 pitches can be combined if you like, but with the traverses, it's probably best to stick with this game plan.

P4: Climb the dreaded offwidth! It's difficulty is directly related to hand size (in my experience). If your hands are big enough, you can fist jam the crux (easier). You don't need any oversize cams as the crack is 3-4" in the back through the crux. Continue up an easier chimney, and belay on a ledge with 2 bolts (same stance as the last belay on Perversion).

P5: Cross Perversion and work up and left to a steep, right-facing dihedral, and climb it (10b). This is a stellar pitch in itself and is recommended if you are climbing Perversion and looking for a harder exit.

Protection

Standard rack up to #4 Friend. For bomber pro at the crux, bring extra #3-#3.5 Camalot sized pieces. P1 and P5 are mostly thin cracks. [Eds. many folks have reported feeling inadequately prepared with a #4 Friend. #4 Camalot(s) may be wise.]