Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Roger and Bill Briggs, 1974
Page Views: 10,444 total · 48/month
Shared By: George Bell on Aug 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Private Property issues Details
Access Issue: Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details


If you like cracks of all widths, try this climb!

P1: Begin 8' left of Culp's Fault. Follow a steep crack through a small roof (10a) and belay after 80'. Note: there is a short wide section near the top of this crack, for which a #4 Camalot can be useful.

P2: Traverse left 20' to the next crack, and head on up to belay on the main ledge with 2 bolts that runs across the wall. Walk left along this ledge. 110'.

P3: Climb a short slab to the base of an obvious, right-facing dihedral with an offwidth crack. This is a very short pitch and involves an unprotected 5.8 move up the slab. Probably some of these first 3 pitches can be combined if you like, but with the traverses, it's probably best to stick with this game plan.

P4: Climb the dreaded offwidth! It's difficulty is directly related to hand size (in my experience). If your hands are big enough, you can fist jam the crux (easier). You don't need any oversize cams as the crack is 3-4" in the back through the crux. Continue up an easier chimney, and belay on a ledge with 2 bolts (same stance as the last belay on Perversion).

P5: Cross Perversion and work up and left to a steep, right-facing dihedral, and climb it (10b). This is a stellar pitch in itself and is recommended if you are climbing Perversion and looking for a harder exit.


Standard rack up to #4 Friend. For bomber pro at the crux, bring extra #3-#3.5 Camalot sized pieces. P1 and P5 are mostly thin cracks. [Eds. many folks have reported feeling inadequately prepared with a #4 Friend. #4 Camalot(s) may be wise.]


Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Nice addition. P1 has a wide section near the end of the pitch. I watched a fellow fail to protect this well, pitch out of the wide section, and deck. He only broke an ankle, because gear well below kept his back off the ground. Very good wires or a medium Friend can be placed just before entering the wide section. At the top of this slot, a good piece can be placed in the roof crack prior to pulling the roof. I think that the guy I watched fell while hauling over roof, which was poorly protected. Aug 29, 2001
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Yeah, I remember that wide section now (it was a few years ago that I did the route!). Thanks for adding those tips.

Another tip: if you have small hands, try wrapping an entire roll of tape around each hand for the crux! However, this may be considered aid by purists. Aug 29, 2001
At the end of the second pitch, if you're looking to bail, you can rap with TWO ropes to the ground. (50m ropes may be long enough--we did this with 2 60s and had about 10-15m extra--anyone else know for sure?) Nov 2, 2001
Excellent route. The last pitch may be the best of its grade in Eldo. The unprotected slab is probably harder for those below a certain height (6'0"?), but one of the (relatively) new belay bolts can be used as a foothold to take the teeth out of this section. Recommended pro for the wide part: #4 Friend, #4 Camalot, #3 Camalot, #3.5 Friend; I didn't have the #3.5 and had to run it out on the upper part.

The second pitch is quality but somewhat contrived. If you continue up the line of the first pitch, you will end up at the big ledge at the start of the 3rd pitch w/out having done the second pitch. The traverse to the second pitch proper should occur shortly around where the first pitch hits easier ground. Jan 27, 2003
Joe Collins  
I took advantage of the end of the raptor closures and did this route this morning. If there is a better combination of splitter 5.10 Eldo crack pitches, then I have yet to see it. Dave Goldstein's gear suggestion for the crux pitch is pretty much right on.... I had a #3, 3.5, and 4 Camalots which worked, though one could probably do it with less backcleaning with a second #3.5 Camalot (or #4 Friend). A couple specific comments on the 1st pitch: 1) the fixed anchor indicated in the Rossiter topo at the end of the first pitch does not exist; 2) the first pitch is a harsh warm-up... it felt way harder that the last pitch 10b.

Watch out for posion ivy!

Beware of poison ivy along the cliff base! It's everywhere right now. It puts the Black Canyon ivy situation to shame. Watch for the annoying small sprig of P.I. on the last pitch.... I didn't realize what it was until I nearly climbed through it.

Best multi-pitch 5.10 at Eldo. Aug 1, 2003
#3.5 Camalot is the beta on the wide. The #4 Friend suggestion in the Rossiter guide is all I went by and it only fit at the very beginning of the wide. What a great route!! I thought the first pitch could easily get a 10c rating as well. Aug 18, 2004
Fort Collins, CO
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
One of the best multi-pitch 5.10s I've done on the Front Range. Since the route traverses left for a significant distance over its entire length, it ends up being quite a bit longer than if it just went straight up. Oct 24, 2005
Regarding the 3rd pitch, I'm 5' 11" and thought the initial moves were probably 9+ or 10a. Short, but not a pitch to take lightly given the ankle-busting potential. Nov 16, 2005
Danny Inman
Danny Inman   Arvada
Incredible route that throws it all at you, fingers, hands, fists, hand-fist stacks, slab, etc....

The first pitch is in your face from the start. Leading first pitch, I kept going, following the crack system to a belay that I thought was the one indicated in Rossiter's book. This was about 110' although more direct this caused me to miss the entire second pitch -oh well....

As for the slab, it is indeed pretty spicy, I would suggest running the slab and OW together so you can save a few hand/fist pieces for the 5.7 section above the OW.

Highly recommended! Sep 25, 2006
Stefanie Van Wychen
Denver, CO
Stefanie Van Wychen   Denver, CO
Ditto on the offwidth being hand-size-dependent, my boyfriend has big hands and he cruised it, but I had to hand stack, and it was pretty difficult. Mainly, I could move up, but removing gear was tricky. And the 3rd pitch slab is pretty dicey, I led this thinking it was all over once I got my feet up on the first ledge - not so - it still has one more spicy move to give - especially if you're short.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ROUTE - Every pitch seemed to be its own climb!!! Sep 25, 2006
El Manzano
kirkadirka   El Manzano
Climbed first 2 pitches of Captain Beyond to last 2 pitches of Perversion. "Beyond Perversion" avoids the offwidth and crux of Captain beyond but was definitely a fun variation.

As a leader breaking into the 10s, I was hanging on the first 10a pitch. Muy stout. Aug 17, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
Good advice, George.... Even if you don't have little girl hands, you should consider a good tape job. A few extra wraps on the thumb may be helpful. Taping your ankles and wearing knee pads should also be considered for P4. I was glad that I brought 2 #4 C4 Camalots.

Linking P1 and P2 is a demanding 175ft lead. I only had a handful of nuts on my rack when I reached the anchors. A pumpy pitch.... Nov 10, 2008
Steve Annecone
Steve Annecone   boulder
My vote for best 5.10 crack route in the Boulder area! Be careful not to yard on that loose flake on pitch 2. Jan 21, 2009
Kevin Gillest
Winter Park CO
Kevin Gillest   Winter Park CO
Climbed the route with Brad White the day the closure ended, August 1st. No doubt, one of the best 5.10s I have ever climbed in the area. We did not take doubles on BD #4, ended up leap frogging gear on pitch 3. Very sustained but well worth the effort.

The top rappel needs another long runner, we did not have anything to leave. Aug 3, 2010
Chris Ferraro
Chris Ferraro  
Recommend doing it in 3 pitches. As described in the page route description, link 1&2, 3&4.

Can do it w/o much issue w a single rack from C3s to #2, 2 x #3, 2 x #4 (one new, one old). Sizes are BD C4.

Anchor's in pretty good shape. Not crazy about the second anchor, quite a nest of tat. Nov 5, 2011
Mike Soucy
Longmont, CO
Mike Soucy   Longmont, CO
Bring a knife, if you think, of it to clean up the rap anchors. They are becoming so filled with tat that it's hard to thread the ropes through...wish I could have fixed them today but didn't have one with me. There is plenty of good material to leave, as well as plenty of junk to clean. Thank you! Nov 20, 2013
Boulder, CO
pfwein   Boulder, CO
Warning detailed beta:
On the wide crux, I used my two big pieces (an old #4 Camalot and #4 C4) early in the wide section, got up to the sort of "rest" (with a foot out right) and saw I needed another similar sized cam to keep going. I was able to fit a very tipped out #3 C4 at my feet, lowered and retrieved my old #4. So, at least for me, you need either 3 similar sized big pieces, or space the 2 out better (which is what most people do I imagine; I put my first one in very near the bottom, that could have been left out or backcleaned). #3 C4 won't work until you're higher in the crack. For climbing, I did a few fist jams, then layback to the "rest," then more, somewhat easier chimneying. A full single set of cams/nuts below #3 would probably be fine on this pitch. On the other pitches, finger-sized cams and surrounding sizes are more useful. This beta is for someone who is challenged by the route; stronger climbers could probably make any "standard rack" work fine, with at least 1 #4. Aug 30, 2014
Michael Butts
Boulder, Co
Michael Butts   Boulder, Co
What an amazing route. I can't really think of anything better for 5.10 in the boulder area. Athlete's Feat maybe. Pleasure climbing all the way to the top. Every pitch is amazing. I lead every pitch, and I thought the first was a stout warm-up; however, I did miss a good jug at the roof. Ha! You can lead the wide crack with 2x #3s and 2x#4s BDs. Once at the the wide crack. I put a #3 at the very bottom with a sling on it. Put the #4 in the crack and committed. As I jammed, I bump the #4 until getting to the rest and left it there. Once on the rest, I put the second four and bumped it until it turns squeeze. Put a #3 in and took the four out and placed it a little higher and exited the wide stuff. There is an amazing finger crack bulge above this that is just fantastic exposure. Love, love, love this pitch. However, if you climb 5.10 at Vedauwoo at all, then you will have no problem with this pitch. This crack would be 10a in Vedauwoo. Some examples would be Upper Progressive, Elevator, Upper Slot Left - all 10a at the Voo and all just as hard as this route, in my opinion. Honestly maybe my hands just fit well. My partner struggled a little, haha. The last pitch is amazing (10b) but didn't feel like it was as difficult as the first at 10a. Amazing fingers and liebacking in a steep corner. So good! Can't wait to do this again. I had doubles from BD #0.3 to #4 with 2x green Alien. Do it! Sep 21, 2016
With ascents in 1989, 2003, and 2017, I've been climbing this route at 14 year intervals. Here's the tetradecennial report:

If this climb were in Eldo proper, it would be considered the Naked Edge of 5.10 and be highly coveted. Pitches 1 and 5 are just great. P4, the fist crack, is great too, but more in a memorable than an enjoyable way. According to my 2003 report, pitch 2 is also very good, but I don't remember, and I didn't do it on my recent ascent. Instead, I overshot the turnoff for the traverse and ended up belaying at a rap station somewhere above the traverse. From here, it made sense to take my 2003 advice and continue straight up then left to the bolts at the start of pitch 3; this variant was very easy but a real pile, in other words, not recommended.

The reachy starting move on Pitch 3 had shut me down on the previous ascent when I was a much stronger climber, consequently this time I didn't embark on it with much confidence. Sure enough, I couldn't even get in position to step on the bolt. So I found an alternative.

Pitch three variation: from the bolts at the start of the regular P3, traverse right/east/down about 40 feet to an inset/corner that forms the right edge the P3 slab. Belay here, then follow obvious cracks up and left to the belay at the start of the P4 wide crack. This variation has decent 5.7ish climbing and like the rest of the climb except for the P3 slab (that this variation avoids), is well-protected. Oct 17, 2017
Sean Onasch
fort collins
Sean Onasch   fort collins
The offwidth was the best part of this climb, IMO, definitely not 10+ though. 10b or c maybe. Fist size might matter, but there are enough foot ledges to use, and you are able to get you're forearm to lock with some restrictions that make it easier overall. This would be 10a in the Voo. 2x #4, 1x #3 work good if you can bump them up. Nov 4, 2018