Trad, 5 pitches,
Avg: 3.8 from 88
FA: Roger and Bill Briggs, 1974
> Eldorado Mountain
> Mickey Mouse Wall
If you like cracks of all widths, try this climb!
P1: Begin 8' left of Culp's Fault
. Follow a steep crack through a small roof (10a) and belay after 80'. Note: there is a short wide section near the top of this crack, for which a #4 Camalot can be useful.
P2: Traverse left 20' to the next crack, and head on up to belay on the main ledge with 2 bolts that runs across the wall. Walk left along this ledge. 110'.
P3: Climb a short slab to the base of an obvious, right-facing dihedral with an offwidth crack. This is a very short pitch and involves an unprotected 5.8 move up the slab. Probably some of these first 3 pitches can be combined if you like, but with the traverses, it's probably best to stick with this game plan.
P4: Climb the dreaded offwidth! It's difficulty is directly related to hand size (in my experience). If your hands are big enough, you can fist jam the crux (easier). You don't need any oversize cams as the crack is 3-4" in the back through the crux. Continue up an easier chimney, and belay on a ledge with 2 bolts (same stance as the last belay on Perversion
P5: Cross Perversion
and work up and left to a steep, right-facing dihedral, and climb it (10b). This is a stellar pitch in itself and is recommended if you are climbing Perversion
and looking for a harder exit.
Standard rack up to #4 Friend. For bomber pro at the crux, bring extra #3-#3.5 Camalot sized pieces. P1 and P5 are mostly thin cracks. [Eds. many folks have reported feeling inadequately prepared with a #4 Friend. #4 Camalot(s) may be wise.]