Type: Trad, 225 ft (68 m), 2 pitches
FA: Bob Culp
Page Views: 3,979 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a spectacular line in between the South and Central towers. This climb offers everything from RP-sized crack climbing to an exposed arete to offwidth.

P1. Start on a ledge about 10 feet off the ground. Take the L-facing corner. The crack to the left is Captain Beyond (10c). Start with the crux, about 10 feet into the climb. Place a No. 2 and/or 3 RP (quite bomber, actually), then stem and smear your way up to a rest. This pitch follows the dihedral system for about 115 feet to an obvious ledge.

P2. For the second pitch, continue up the dihedral, pull a fun lieback bulge, then stay R in the dihedral through an offwidth section. A #4 Camalot could be used here, but it's easy going and a only a short offwidth section. Finish at a tree with some slings at another ledge. This pitch is about 110ft. also.

DESCENT: Option 1: Make a rap back to a ledge with an old sling around a flake and some pitons for an anchor, then make a DOUBLE rope rap down from here. Option 2: If you only have one rope, make 4 single rope raps from stations in between the North and Central towers. (You'll have to traverse around the back side of the Central tower to the West to get there.)

Protection Suggest change

Full stoppers (incl. RPs) Friends from #0.5-#3, and a #4 Camalot (optional). Twin ropes are preferrable. About 10 runners and 3 shoulder slings with biners for these long pitches.