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Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall

Asahi T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Culp's Fault T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don'’t Panic It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mighty Mouse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Dihedral T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Shiva's Dance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Stigmata T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: DeMallie & Hare - 1989
Page Views: 1,753 total, 12/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 11, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details
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Description

Vergin' on Perversion climbs the arete just right of the obvious Perversion dihedral system. The line is a bit contrived in places, but the rock and climbing is brillant. Two or three stars for the first three pitches for sure.

P1: Scramble up and left on some ledges and start up a thin crack with two or three bolts. About 50' up you can step right, following a line of bolts around the arete. Belay on an obvious ledge at a single bolt and some gear. 110' 5.11a.

P2: Climb a short (30') dihedral. It would be sensible to link this with either P1 or P3. Belay on a ledge. 5.9.

P3: Follow the line of bolts back out to the arete, and eventually around the corner (crux). There are two 5.11 sections on this pitch. Belay at two bolts. 115' Quickdraws only for this pitch.

P4: Wander up and right, passing a tree on your left, on easy ground. Perform an unprotected 5.8ish move at the arete (lots of lichen here), then step up and slightly left to clip the lone bolt on this pitch. An easy 5.10 face move gains easy climbing to the top. 120' 5.10a.

Protection

Single set of cams to #0.75 Camalot, wires, 10 draws.
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
 
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
 
Walking up to do this climb without prior knowledge, it is easy to miss the traverse right on P1 when the crack closes at the ramp 3/4 way up, I fumbled around there for a good 5-10 minutes before I saw the bolt on the right. The 11a was above this was just great.

And then after the crux on P3, I totally missed the traverse step right and over to the little ledge. Instead, natural instincts lead me to the left (wrong) and up easy ledges, DOH! That's what I get for not paying attention to the topo. But I lowered off that upper bolt and did those sweet moves.

Brilliant climb and doable for a 11a leader as it's easy to pass the 11c crux by holding the QD to grab the next hold.

P4 had snow and ice on the ledges but was still fun, I got the smallest RP in to protect the moves up to the bolt, 9. Feb 1, 2010
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
P1 is good by itself as a long 10 mixed section to the 11a bolted crux. There were several hard moves on the 10 section with some funky rock. There was one runout near the top where you start a 9 sequence with the gear below your feet. You may be able to sling a thin and doubtful flake on the right if you are tall enough. There are 3 bolts near the bottom and 3 bolts at the 11a crux plus another higher bolt. I used gear to a gold Camalot. There may be placements for bigger cams to #4 Camalot. At the ledge, it's best to use a very long (triple length) sling on the single bolt and then move left and belay from gear at the bottom of the Perversion corner. You can then escape left to rap from a tree. Sep 20, 2009
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
Thanks, Josh! Then, I don't recommend anyone avoid this route because of the "s" in the rating. I was barely able to second the 5.11 pitches, yet I led the last one and have no memory of being worried. Nov 16, 2005
Josh Janes    
 
The runout is on the last pitch - heading up to the lone bolt. If you did OK on the 5.11c, then it's unlikely you'll have a problem, but the fall would be pretty bad. Nov 15, 2005
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
Josh, where is the "s" on this route? I did it many years ago, and I don't remember anything too scary. Maybe, on the first pitch? Or the last pitch? Nov 15, 2005