PRINT: Rock Climb Perversion, Boulder

Perversion

5.9, Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches,

Avg: 3.6 from 234 votes
FA: Layton Kor, Bob Culp, George Hurley and others, 1963
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Mountain > Mickey Mouse Wall

Access Issue: Private Property issues Details

The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.

Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.

Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.

Access Issue: Permit require to access? Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through Aug. 12? - each year Details

Per Tony B: according to this recently published map, Micky Mouse Wall is now in an HCA and requires a permit to visit: maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi….

Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is projected to be closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021

Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:

bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…

Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Click here bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for more details.

Description

Possibly one of the all time classic routes of its grade, Perversion fires up the central tower in three pitches of glorious climbing on some of the best rock in the Front Range. Below the central tower is a large block - climb up left on talus around the block and then over to the right side for a cozy belay that looks up a system of left facing dihedrals all the way to the top.

P1. Start off on the right side of the block in a rough finger and hand crack. This is largely 5.7/5.8 until just before the next ledge where the line kicks up a bit of 5.9 on very good gear. Get to the ledge and move right 15 feet to the base of the dihedral. 75 feet, 5.9.

P2. At the ledge (with a tree), scramble right to a point below the shallow dihedral. Fire up the left dihedral with 2 fabulous cracks for 25 feet. Traverse to the right on large blocks about 10 feet to another dihedral with a good crack. Cruise up this crack and then continue over broken rock with good pro to a nice belay ledge. There are two large bolts about 10 feet right of the crack. 150 feet, 5.8.

P3. Continue up fabulous climbing in the corner with solid 5.8 move separated by many excellent rests. Head for the monstrous roof and swing out right on jug-o-rama holds with bomb-proof gear in the corner at 5.6. 120 feet, 5.8.

Descent: downclimb to the left (east & north towards trees) then back (west) to the large notch (skip the first, smaller notch). Make an 80 foot rap to slings, then a 60 foot rap to a large tree, then a final (third) rap 60 feet right to the base of the climb.

Per Carl Sampurna: alternatively you can rappel hard right to reach another bolted anchor. From there, rappel down to the top of P1 and a tree with cord and a quicklink (check the cord!), and rappel once more down to the base of the route.

The original descent info mentioned slings for the 2nd rap, which is now bolts, but they'll be an awkward traverse away if you rap straight down from the top, hence the suggestion to veer to the right.

Protection

Bring a full rack and a 60 m rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tyler Mintz near the end of P1 on Perversion.

IFMGA guide, Matt Hartman making the exit moves on the last pitch of Perversion.

Bruce Hodgkins slaying the splitter final pitch on Perversion.

A nice photo of the upper two pitches. The route goes up the huge right facing corner near the center of the photo and then right under the roof to the top.

Pitch 3 - Layback city!

Tony Bubb leads the third pitch of the Mickey Mouse Wall classic, Perversion. Photo by John Cioci.

After topping out, scramble left, and you see this pretty big platform.
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The first bolted rap station is at the notch, where you can see Arthur (in white) getting ready. The next 2 rappels are also bolted, to your right (25') and left (20') respectively

After topping out, scramble left, and you see this pretty big platform. The first bolted rap station is at the notch, where you can see Arthur (in white) getting ready. The next 2 rappels are al…

Gary Hann on the massive open book 3rd pitch of Perversion. Photo by Jeff Rieks.

Cindy making the hard move at the top of P1.

Ben heading up the 3rd (last) pitch.

John Cioci Leads the first pitch of the Micky Mouse Wall classic, Perversion. Photo by Tony Bubb.

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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Bauman

I've been wanting to do this for a while, but it's off limits until Aug.1 as far as I know.....anyone know for sure? bldr matt Jun 27, 2001

George Bell
Boulder, CO

Yes, this route has been under the Peregrine falcon restriction ever since an ascent of this route by some friends of mine. As "Ilana" and "Britt" (not their real names, these are randomly chosen pseudonyms) climbed the route one summer, they were continually pestered by a frantic falcon. They called the open space managers (or is it JeffCo managers) and reported the incident. The next week the cliff was closed. The thing that upsets me is that I don't think they check yearly to see if the nesting pair is still there, and do they really need to close the entire crag? Jun 28, 2001

George Bell
Boulder, CO

Richard, I'm surprised you didn't mention that getting off the ground is tricky on this climb, I remember it being a 5.9 move for sure. It's a weird step through an overhang. A short move and you can place a bomber stopper here. Aug 28, 2001

Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO

5.9

George's point was well taken, however, each time I enter a comment onto this entry it finds its way to a different climb....Thanks George, your point was well taken!!! Aug 29, 2001

Anonymous Coward

You can descend in three single-rope rappels to the same block where Perversion starts. From there it's an easy scramble (north) to the ground. The top rap anchor as of 10/20/01 is about 10 pounds of junk webbing, a rope that belongs in Neptune's museum, and one decent loop of spectra cord. The second anchor is not much better (it got a new sling yesterday, 10/20/01). Take some big *leaver* sling material, a knife and a garbage bag if you're going soon. Oct 21, 2001

Chris Dawson
Grand Junction, CO

If you're doing this route (as everyone should) and you make it through the last corner feeling strong, there is an exciting roof-exit option called Vulcans Don't Lie. It's so short it isn't really worthy of an entry all its own; however, it is worth doing if one is courageous enough. I had the luxury of doing it on TR and found poor gear and big rattling flakes. Starting at the base of the roof at the end of pitch three it climbs up, out and left. There is/was a small fixed cam here (I'm sure it's retrievable for all you gear hounds). The new Eldo book rates this .10b, I found it to be a little easier than that, but once again, I wasn't looking at a nasty fall onto the slab. Definitely, a fun alternative for an adventurous second. Jan 26, 2002

Shane Zentner
Colorado

I would have to agree with Richard's description of the route. This was my first trip to Mickey Mouse Wall and it was good. The route follows a system of dihedrals then cuts across a roof to an awesome view of the plains. Do bring extra gear for the belay anchor at the top. Three rappels took us back to the bottom. Cams, stoppers, hexes. Jan 28, 2002

Aaron Shupp

Do not miss this route. It is one of the best climbs on the wall. The third pitch is absolutely beautiful! A long sling or two seems to help a lot on the second pitch if you decide to put a few pieces in. Jan 31, 2002

Bryson Slothower
Portland, OR

I think pitch 3 is probably the best pitch of 5.7 I have ever climbed..... Jun 11, 2002

pete cogan

Rap info: from the rap route, added two new slings and one biner to the top rap (the slings go around a rock and over the edge); added a new sling to the next rap, the one with 3 rings on it; added a sling and biner to the belay tree at the top of the first pitch of perversion. And cut off lots of old stuff. As of September 14, 2002. Sep 15, 2002

Ben Mottinger

5.9

Very good.

The moves on P1 are stout and exciting, but no harder than a route like Green Spur. I thought the last pitch was more 5.8 than 5.7. Sep 29, 2002

Anonymous Coward

Vulcans don't lie is a good finish that protects well. Overhung gym like movement in cool position. Aug 26, 2004

Clint Locks
Boulder

5.9

Dave-I agree. I found P1 to be one of the more 'thoughtful' .9s I've been on. Good (albeit small) gear for the first crux, right off the ground. Also, Chris mentioned "Vulcans Don't Lie" for an exciting finish to an amazing climb. Excellent choice! The variation is short, very steep, and (I found) protects well until the last 3 moves, which are as juggy as they get! Careful of a huge block in the middle of the roof that is extremely enticing, but extremely loose. Hauling off that could end badly. Trend slightly left to positive holds after pulling through the roof. Aug 15, 2006

Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO

An exciting route, perhaps even more so there is a good chance you might have the entire area to yourself! Found pitch one to be definitely on the tricky side of 5.9. Probably 3 distinct "cruxes" the hardest being just getting started, and then trying to finish. Didn't find the route finding on pitch two to be all that obvious. After heading up the initial very steep crack and a bit more (and sustained at the grade) traversed right and set up an intermediate belay to help avoid rope drag. From there, it continues to be surprising sustained (maybe even a bit of 5.8?) at the grade. Everybody raves about pitch three and that is certainly justified. Best pitch of the climb, with the somewhat tricky crux coming at the end of the crack before heading right. As of today, rap stations were in good state. Simply scramble north to the obvious notch and big tree. Sep 10, 2007

Eric Goltz
Boulder, CO

"Possibly one of the all time classic routes of its grade"--- this route has 1 move of 5.9 right off the ground, the rest is all 5.7 or less! Not that this is a bad route, but this quotation is a real stretch! Jul 4, 2008

Bingman
Arden Hills, MN

This route can be done in 2 pitches with a 60m. rope. Just be mindful of rope drag when linking p1 and part of p2 (place low, then high). There is a nice belay stance in the middle of p2 that will leave you with 2 feet of spare rope for the final pitch. Great line! Dec 14, 2008

Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO

Hmm.. there is no way that there is only one 5.9 move and the rest 5.7. For example the end of the first pitch is quite tricky and certainly way harder than anything you find on the Bastille Crack. My partner that day can lead 5.10 and struggled there and even took a bit of a fall. It is also quite a sustained climb. Of course these are just my assessments. Just don't want some poor newer 5.7 climber coming along expecting a jaunt. Classic adventure climb though. May 26, 2009

Luke Clarke
Golden

This is a highly recommended route. I can't think of another that is more committing as soon as you pick up your feet. I had a good RP and a 0 Metolius in but if you fall and the gear blows it's a heinous looking landing. The dispute on the rating on the rest of the pitch likely comes from the fact that it would be easy to avoid the second crux, which felt 9+ at least to me, by traversing to the right and then back left at the ledge. I suspect some climbers do that whether or not they intend to skip the higher crux. Oct 15, 2009

David HH
CR, CO

5.9

I would highly recommend bringing webbing and rings or quicklinks for fixing up the rap anchors. There was one piece of webbing at every station that inspired some confidence. Also, cleaning up all the old webbing will be less of an eyesore as this is a very beautiful area. I will do it next time I'm out there, but this won't be till after raptor nesting for this year.

As a side note, wouldn't bolted anchors with colored hangers be less of an eye sore than the mass of webbing strung out thru those rap stations? Does ACE handle applications for Eldorado Mountain as well. Thanks for any info. Jan 18, 2010

Chris Archer

5.9

Thanks for the update, David. Mickey Mouse is owned and managed by Boulder Mountain Parks and is out of ACE's jurisdiction. Contact the Flatirons Climbing Council for information about replacing the anchors. Jan 18, 2010

jacktheburro
Denver

Great route. A buddy and I did this last week, and it was tons of fun. A hell of an approach, but it was worth it. Getting off the ground was tricky, and for my money, it was the most difficult part of the entire climb. You can protect it well, though: I got a solid micro nut right at the beginning, and a blue Alien in just a few feet above that. The rest of the route takes a ton of small stuff. Bring a bunch of TCUs and Aliens. And the last pitch ate up all my mid-sized cams. Aug 25, 2010

Arch Richardson
Grand Junction

5.9 PG13

Repeated this classic yesterday after (too) many years. First move is dicey above small gear and IMHO is PG13. Watch routing of rope over detached blocks on P2 traverse. Also, it would be easy to hang the rope or pull down rocks on the rap descent. In short, an excellent adventure. Sep 13, 2010

303scott

The route doesn't get sun until late morning this time of year (like 1030-11). First pitch is a stout warm-up with a tricky upper crux - could be top-rope protected if you bring a #4 Camalot. Highly recommend breaking up pitch 2 into two shorter pitches - our rope got hung up in the loose blocks, and I had to rap a fixed line to free it - would have been avoided if we moved the belay to the p-2 belay for Verging on Perversion.

Finally, there are new bolted rap stations that a single 70m easily reaches. From the anchor in the notch between the middle and north towers, rap far climber's right to a 2-bolt rap anchor. From there, rap climber's left towards the big tree to a 2 bolt rap anchor. From there, with a 70 meter rope, one can reach a small ledge 8 feet off the ground - 5.0 downclimb to the ground from the ledge - but it is a real ropestretcher, so tie knots/watch ends. Jan 26, 2015

Sean Grady

5.9 PG13

Overall great climb. Fun and very leadable for a 5.9 climber. The only caveat was the awful and somewhat dangerous rope drag on pitch 2. I suggest breaking up the pitches or moving belay station for pitch 2 beneath the crack corner. Oct 19, 2015

Eric Klammer
Eagle, CO

5.9

You can make it from the nice bolted rap station atop Parallel Journey to the starting ledge of Perversion in one double 70m rope rappel. It's probably around 235-240' and just possible with rope stretch. Nov 15, 2015

Rob Baumgartner
Niwot

SINGLE 60M RAP BETA (for Middle Tower descent in general): my partner & I had heard that a bolt rap station had been added to replace the tat slings 100' below the Parallel Journey anchors, but when I hit got to the slings (all cut but still in there), they were nowhere near me. I looked around for a long time before I finally saw them up & right, then I had a hard time getting over (the rope was on the left side of a big arete, so I had to climb to a stance & have my partner flip the rope around from above). Bottom line: rappel HARD RIGHT off the PJ anchors, & make sure you're right of the arete. It looks like they were placed here due to poor rock quality on the plumb line, but they're a bit hard to spot. From there, head down & left 80' to a ledge (as mentioned by 303scott below) then straight down to the start ledge. Nov 28, 2017

Karissa Colorado
Boulder, CO

Beautiful line! For me the crux came at the start and at the top of the first pitch as I forgot some beta from last time. Second pitch manages not to detract from the route as a whole despite wandering a bit. Best to be very thoughtful with where, how often, and with how much extension you place gear on the 2nd pitch to prevent heinous rope drag. 3rd pitch is classssssic. Bring a 70. There are bolted rap stations that a single 70m easily reaches. From the anchor in the notch between the middle and north towers, rap climber's right on the climber's right of an obvious prow/arete that you can see from the start of the raps. This first rap lands you at a 2-bolt rap anchor. From there, rap climber's left towards the big tree, and look for the next 2 bolt rap anchor. From there, with a 70 meter rope, one can reach a small ledge Just above your first pitch belay stance. 5.0 downclimb to the ground from the ledge or walk off easier terrain to climber's left. Jan 27, 2020

Maybe Consider
Forgiving Yourself

IMO, P1 is super beta intense, and it's a "style" with many hidden holds and blank stems. If you find the easy way, it's still the hardest 5.9 pitch in Eldo.

Pin scars from the old aid climbing days made this climb possible, so it's kinda a manufactured pitch...an onsight might feel like 5.10c. Oct 24, 2021

Jesse B
Colorado

First pitch felt at least 9+ to me with 3 sections of 9. I suspect people who think this is mostly 5.7/8 are skipping the last crux by climbing out right of the dihedral. Oct 31, 2021

Kaz Hatfield
Firestone, CO

5.9

The crux on the first pitch had a great sequence. Found a Praying Mantis on the signature pitch. So between the cool moves on the first pitch and the Mantis on the final pitch it was worth the incredibly botched hike, passing a bear and rappel needed to get to the rock. 4 out of 5 Stars! Nov 9, 2021