> Eldorado Mountain
The rock at Mickey is clandestine in a sense. It sees very little traffic since the approach is so long, but the area gives an almost "mystical" aura, to quote my friend Dave Simmons.
There are some great routes here up to 4 pitches long. The greatest majority of the routes are traditionally protected, although the most difficulty are mostly bolt protected. The grading of the routes is starkly grounded. Approaches tend to have poison ivy in way more places than you would like.
The shortened season and the longer approach make the climbing here that much more precious.
There is now legal approaches, thanks to the hard efforts of the climbing community.
Complicated! Print this out!
To reach Mickey Mouse Wall, take the road to Eldo and turn left on County Road 67 (paved) right before the town. Go about 300 yards to a locked gate. Park here.
Hike up the same road to the south, then to the north, then back south. At 1/2 mile there is another dirt road to the left. Pass this to the right, turn back to the north and pass through a major rock cut. Here the road turns south; when it turns back north, you will be in a small drainage filled with trees.
Hike up this drainage for ~200 yards up a very indistinct trail. Find an old road and follow it for a few hundred yards until it intersects a larger dirt road. Find a good trail at this intersection and hike up through open forest and a grassy meadow.
Crest a small ridge and you will find a fork. The left goes downhill and to the southeast. Take the right fork uphill to the southwest. Follow this trail to the railroad tracks.
At the tracks, turn left and go AROUND tunnel 6 (there will be a "T6" sign). The old approach had you listen for trains first, be careful, and go fast!Eds. there is also a trail that goes around Tunnel 6. It gains 150-200 vertical feet, but it is legal.
The wall is immediately on the other side of the tunnel. There is a very poor trail right under the wall, and big talus (preferable) a little to the left. Hike up to your route.
Per Byron Murray
New hiking trails in the area therefore updating directions:
To reach Mickey Mouse Wall, take the road to Eldo and turn left on County Road 67 (paved) right before the town. Go about 300 yards to a locked gate. Park here. Sign at the trailhead.
Hike up the maintained gravel road, avoiding a left after about 0.5 mile, and continue through a rock cut. Continue hiking up the road aka "Fowler Trail" avoiding a few single track trails heading off to the right. Continue hiking up the road avoiding roads that go off to the right up to the Conda Quarry. At an intersection with a road and a gate on the right continue straight onto a double track for about 100 feet and then take a right onto a single track. The climber's access trail.
Continue on the single track avoiding a left single track aka "Goshawk Ridge Trail" all the way to the train tracks. Approaching Tunnel 6.
At the tracks, many climbers USED to turn left and go through tunnel 6 (there will be a "T6" sign). They USED HAVE TO listen for trains first, be careful, and go fast!
MUCH BETTER NOW, when you arrive at the tracks, turn left and walk along the east side of the tracks towards the tunnel (tunnel 6). About 20 feet before the tunnel, take a faint trail up the dirt berm on the left. The hike around Tunnel 6 going left/east around the tunnel.
The wall is immediately on the other side of the tunnel. Please DO NOT go through the tunnel. You will climb approximately 200 feet contouring uphill to skirt around the east side of the tunnel, generally paralleling the direction of the tracks. Eventually you will crest the ridge and start descending, continuing to contour around the ridge until you arrive back at the tracks. Promptly cross the tracks and continue towards the wall on the southwest side of the tracks.
There is a very poor trail right under the wall, and big talus (preferable) a little to the left. Hike up to your route.
Per Tank Evans
: there is a well worn trail that bypasses the tunnel 6 that is MUCH preferred than the old approach through the tunnel. The trail over adds maybe 5 minutes to the approach and is the RECOMMENDED APPROACH.