I don't know how many times I've been to the Scarface Wall and not gone to the right side. Mantel Illness is a ways down on the right side (couple hundred yards). There is a very short crack to the left of Mantel Illness.
This is a fun climb, with a crux unlike most in the Creek. It's easy 5.10- climbing up to the crux. The crux is a great bouldery mantel/highstep move. It's well protected by a green alien or, if you're scared, a #0 TCU less then a foot higher. After the mantel, the climb is pretty much over. Easily done with a 60 meter rope.
Protection
A few hand pieces for the start, and then a smattering of gear down to a green alien.
Seems like the crux mantle was more than 10+ blue TCU is below your feet, move's balancey, Sinestra-esque and the piece you get before the chains is in friable rock. All this keeps the brain busy on lead. BTW, if ya got bigger hands, the hand crack is no giveaway, with a couple bodylengths of splitter offset green camalots. super fun route
Scarface
RSS Feed
