The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
I don't know how many times I've been to the Scarface Wall and not gone to the right side. Mantel Illness is a ways down on the right side (couple hundred yards). There is a very short crack to the left of Mantel Illness.
This is a fun climb, with a crux unlike most in the Creek. It's easy 5.10- climbing up to the crux. The crux is a great bouldery mantel/highstep move. It's well protected by a green alien or, if you're scared, a #0 TCU less then a foot higher. After the mantel, the climb is pretty much over. Easily done with a 60 meter rope.
Protection
A few hand pieces for the start, and then a smattering of gear down to a green alien.
Seems like the crux mantle was more than 10+ blue TCU is below your feet, move's balancey, Sinestra-esque and the piece you get before the chains is in friable rock. All this keeps the brain busy on lead. BTW, if ya got bigger hands, the hand crack is no giveaway, with a couple bodylengths of splitter offset green camalots. super fun route
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