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Mantel Illness

5.11-, Trad,  Avg: 3.1 from 123 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Scarface
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a fun climb, with a crux unlike most in the Creek. It's easy 5.10- climbing up to the crux. The crux is a great bouldery mantel/highstep move. It's well protected by a green alien or, if you're scared, a #0 TCU less then a foot higher. After the mantel, the climb is pretty much over. Easily done with a 60 meter rope.

Protection

A few hand pieces for the start, and then a smattering of gear down to a green alien.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Composite watercolor of Mantel Illness with the upper part of Wavy Gravy shown on the left. Painting by Paul Alie.
[Hide Photo] Composite watercolor of Mantel Illness with the upper part of Wavy Gravy shown on the left. Painting by Paul Alie.
inching up towards the crux
[Hide Photo] inching up towards the crux
Andre on his send of Mantel Illness.
[Hide Photo] Andre on his send of Mantel Illness.
Hannah going for the crimper
[Hide Photo] Hannah going for the crimper
Damien leading Mantel Illness for his first time, gearing up for the crux.<br>
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┬ęTyler Gates
[Hide Photo] Damien leading Mantel Illness for his first time, gearing up for the crux. http://www.GoodLifePhotography.com http://tylergates.blogspot.com ┬ęTyler Gates
mantel illness
[Hide Photo] mantel illness
mantel illness
[Hide Photo] mantel illness
Josh Merriam leading Mantle Illness with style
[Hide Photo] Josh Merriam leading Mantle Illness with style
The crux of Mantel Illness, Photo: Aaron Shupp
[Hide Photo] The crux of Mantel Illness, Photo: Aaron Shupp
Approaching the mantle crux on Mantle Illness
[Hide Photo] Approaching the mantle crux on Mantle Illness
sweet
[Hide Photo] sweet
Mantel Illness
[Hide Photo] Mantel Illness

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Grant Bryans
buena vista colorado
  5.11- PG13
[Hide Comment] I think Bloom calls this climb an 11-, the high step crux is tricky, at least for me, but this is a gem, haven't led it just TR but soon..... Apr 21, 2006
[Hide Comment] Seems like the crux mantle was more than 10+
blue TCU is below your feet, move's balancey, Sinestra-esque
and the piece you get before the chains is in friable rock.
All this keeps the brain busy on lead.
BTW, if ya got bigger hands, the hand crack is no giveaway, with
a couple bodylengths of splitter offset green camalots.
super fun route Mar 2, 2007
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] This route is atypical indian creek route, but one of my fav-o-rites! Dec 26, 2009
Ty Gittins
bozeman
[Hide Comment] i found the face climbing crux to be relatively positive...you are not forced to mantle if you hit the crimps right. getting to the first jug was harder for me. Mar 31, 2011
Mareko
San Francisco
 
[Hide Comment] Climbed this last week. Amazing, has a bit of everything, from crimps to great hand jams. A must do when your at the creek. Its to the right of Wavy Gravy May 24, 2011
Rosco Ross
Albuquerque, NM
  5.11
[Hide Comment] I have to agree that this is a gem. Well worth doing if you are over this far on Scarface. I was able to get a solid 0.3Camalot just below the mantel, which made me feel better for the crimps up above. Jun 1, 2011
slim

  5.11b
[Hide Comment] i thought the off fingers splitter beneath the mantel section was the crux. pretty balancy/ barn door sort of thing. the face climbing goes pretty well if you hit the holds right. Nov 28, 2011
[Hide Comment] This thing kicked my butt. In the process of that happening, I tried cheating over to the left crack, but it is a big off width. Has anyone ever done that route? It doesn't appear on mountainproject yet. Dec 15, 2015