The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This route is located on the left aspect of the Scarface wall about 50 feet to the right of the splitter Scarface. It is recognized as a chalked up series of changing corners with a #0.5 Camalot crack inside. It is a relatively short climb with anchors about 50 to 60 feet high. As is the case with many Indian Creek corners, Sicilian may be jammed or laybacked. I used a combination of these 2 techniques. The crux comes at mid-height where one must negotiate an obvious change in the corner's direction using difficult finger-stacking jams. Once through this section, "cruise" to the finish on thin hands jams. An exciting an strenuous route! It's 2-star rating is only due to the length. The book rated it 5.11, but I feel that 5.11+ is more appropriate. Have fun!
Protection
This route takes #0.5 Camalots very well. Bring 5 pieces in that size range. A couple #0.75 Camalots may also go in. TCUs are helpful for the start and a #1 Camalot or 2.5 Friend will protect the finishing thin-hands crack. There is a good double-bolt anchor at the finish.
I've seen this route and Scarface graded the same in some guide books. I think that only holds true if you have little sausage fingers, meaning the baggy fingers on Sicilian feel bomber to you and the short section of tight hands on Scarface feel hard to you. I have average fingers and think that if Sicilian is 5.11b, then Scarface is 5.10+.
By Jason Haas From: Westminster, CO Apr 23, 2006 rating: 5.11+
I recommend #2 camalots over #1's for the top section. It was more like a combination of hands and thin hands for the top. I'd also agree with the 5.11+ grading. It felt harder than most 5.11s I've done in the Creek and felt only slightly easier than Coyne Crack, even with the cheating layback tactic.
By Kole DeCou From: Flagstaff, AZ Jan 31, 2007 rating: 5.11-
This route for me is considerably easier than Scarface (I have large fingers). It's basically perfect locks the whole way with good rests. If you have big hands don't hesitate to jump on it.
i find this one very difficult. bad size, changing corners, slippery, no contours or irregularities to dig your thumb tips into. i actually find this one considerably harder than coyne crack, johnny cat, or slice and dice, etc. a lot of climbing in such a short pitch.
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