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Sicilian

5.11+, Trad,  Avg: 3.1 from 186 votes
FA: Scott Carson
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Scarface
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Description

This route is located on the left aspect of the Scarface wall about 50 feet to the right of the splitter Scarface. It is recognized as a chalked up series of changing corners with a #0.5 Camalot crack inside. It is a relatively short climb with anchors about 50 to 60 feet high. As is the case with many Indian Creek corners, Sicilian may be jammed or laybacked. I used a combination of these 2 techniques. The crux comes at mid-height where one must negotiate an obvious change in the corner's direction using difficult finger-stacking jams. Once through this section, "cruise" to the finish on thin hands jams. An exciting an strenuous route! It's 2-star rating is only due to the length. The book rated it 5.11, but I feel that 5.11+ is more appropriate. Have fun!

Protection

This route takes #0.5 Camalots very well. Bring 5 pieces in that size range. A couple #0.75 Camalots may also go in. TCUs are helpful for the start and a #1 Camalot or 2.5 Friend will protect the finishing thin-hands crack. There is a good double-bolt anchor at the finish.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

don't slip while clipping
[Hide Photo] don't slip while clipping
Eric Z past the changing corners making easy work of the Sicilian.
[Hide Photo] Eric Z past the changing corners making easy work of the Sicilian.
Erin Keeley on the Sicilian
[Hide Photo] Erin Keeley on the Sicilian
DK leading. This was a slippery bastard.
[Hide Photo] DK leading. This was a slippery bastard.
Chalkin' up on The Sicilian
[Hide Photo] Chalkin' up on The Sicilian
Conor, just beginning to feel the pain of this finger crack.<br>
http://www.GoodLifePhotography.com<br>
http://tylergates.blogspot.com<br>
©Tyler Gates
[Hide Photo] Conor, just beginning to feel the pain of this finger crack. http://www.GoodLifePhotography.com http://tylergates.blogspot.com ©Tyler Gates
Brian H finishing up for the afternoon
[Hide Photo] Brian H finishing up for the afternoon
DK on the Sicilian
[Hide Photo] DK on the Sicilian
The "Sicilian" ringlock style
[Hide Photo] The "Sicilian" ringlock style
Louis styling the bottom big fingers lieback...
[Hide Photo] Louis styling the bottom big fingers lieback...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I agree - very burly. I'm not great on burly liebacks so this was very hard for me - about comparable to Fingers In A Lightsocket, 11+ is fair. May 13, 2003
[Hide Comment] I've seen this route and Scarface graded the same in some guide books. I think that only holds true if you have little sausage fingers, meaning the baggy fingers on Sicilian feel bomber to you and the short section of tight hands on Scarface feel hard to you. I have average fingers and think that if Sicilian is 5.11b, then Scarface is 5.10+. Nov 11, 2003
Jason Haas
Broomfield, CO
5.11+
[Hide Comment] I recommend #2 camalots over #1's for the top section. It was more like a combination of hands and thin hands for the top. I'd also agree with the 5.11+ grading. It felt harder than most 5.11s I've done in the Creek and felt only slightly easier than Coyne Crack, even with the cheating layback tactic. Apr 23, 2006
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] This route for me is considerably easier than Scarface (I have large fingers). It's basically perfect locks the whole way with good rests. If you have big hands don't hesitate to jump on it. Jan 31, 2007
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Agree with 11+. The changing corners is tough to get the foot up on finger stacks. Harder than it looks, with plenty of off-fingers. Red metolius is bomber for the changing corners. Nice route. Mar 31, 2008
[Hide Comment] FA- Scott Carson Feb 2, 2009
Zac Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] bheller wrote:
FA- Scott Carson


off fingers... of course! good line Scott! Mar 24, 2009
slim

  5.11d
[Hide Comment] i find this one very difficult. bad size, changing corners, slippery, no contours or irregularities to dig your thumb tips into. i actually find this one considerably harder than most 11 to 11+ pitches out here. a lot of climbing in such a short pitch. May 26, 2009
Alex Vidal
Durango, CO
[Hide Comment] I have been on this a couple times this season and recently someone pointed out to me that most of the original start "fell off," which has completely changed the character of this climb. Some crag speculation that it could even be as hard as 5.12- with the modified start? I can not comment on the increased difficulty. Apr 4, 2016
Where's Walden
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] Felt harder than Gurka May 6, 2016
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
[Hide Comment] The block at the bottom fell out some time during summer 2015...see this thread: mountainproject.com/v/first….

Rack in camalots: (3-4) .5, (2) .75, (1) 1, (1) 2.

The "New Sicilian" felt like 12- to me, with a sequential cruxy start. Dec 27, 2016
nathanael
Riverside, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Lol I think the guidebook had this at 11- and it felt damn hard for an 11-. Makes me feel better to see people suggesting 11+/12- haha. May 2, 2017
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] I could not layback the opening changing corners/roof section and thus locked through it. Not too bad. 11+ seems right. Great route. Oct 30, 2018
Sam H
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] There is currently a nasty dead bird in the upper hands section of this route. Hard not to make eye contact with it as you climb past! Apr 18, 2022
Hank Thompson
Leavenworth, WA
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] This route felt harder to me than nearly all of the 12s I've tried in the Creek. I would think that an official upgrade to 12- makes sense now that the lower block is gone and there is now a second low crux. Nov 28, 2022
Evan Atwater
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] It was harder felt for me than comic relief, although difficulties are short and I don’t think either route are 12-. Very fun and nice to do a short low commitment hard route at the end of the day. I only used 2 .5s and 2 .75s. A couple of red metolius’ would be perfect, crack felt a bit bigger than .5 most of the way Nov 24, 2023