Coyne Crack 

The beginning is rough, but the jams get nicer the higher you go up. I started out lie-backing until I could tweak my fat toes in. This one's definitely pumpy.

For the start, which seems to be the crux, you need a #1 friend then a #1.5 friend friend or equivalents before you get into the .75 cam sizes. More #1 cams than #.75. Excellent route, one of my favorites.

Actually, Ken Sims got the first ascent when Leonard Coyne was recovering from a fall on the climb. When Coyne fell a friend popped and broke his glasses injuring his eye. Interesting historical note in Stewart M Green's Utah book. - Casey Bernal

A point of clarification. The first ascent of Coyne's Crack was originally done around 75 or 76 by myself (pre-Friend area, passive and hammered hexcentrics and other pieces of jiggery pokery). The accident mentioned by Casey occurred on the attempted 2nd ascent (attempting to use #1 Friends instead of 1.5, no 1/2 size units had been developed by Ray @ that time).

Another aside, one needs 3-4 Red Camalots and 1-2 Golds for the top. Climb would be very necky with simply one Red camalot as indicated in the gear description. - L Coyne

This crack is sometimes confused with Supercrack, and I know of at least one leader who thought they were starting Supercrack. He soon realized his error, but found himself in this thin crack with many large cams dangling from his harness. Having a bona-fide "religious experience", he barely completed the climb for an impressive flash. This style, the "ignorant flash" is even more coveted than the onsight flash.

I read the guidebook description for gear to the second set of chains (4, #3friends) and decided after getting my ass kicked I could take in some fun climbing. I don't know where those 3 frinends go up there. I got about 20ft over the chains before deciding to come back down. If going for the 2nd anchors take more #2 frinends, or if there gone take some 4friends.A. Everhart

i'm one of those people who thought this was super crack. whipped on my first piece, came down, re-racked, and commenced to laybacking and dogging my way up the hardest 5.10 in my whole life. now i do this one at least once on every trip to the creek.

I believe Wild Country came up with the quarter-sized 1.25 and 1.75 Friends just for the start of this crack. I'm just speculating, but they do work so well for the first two pieces.

This is a fun, hard route. Would be easier for those with smaller hands. After the low .75 camalot crux, it is a left facing #1 camalot for a long way. Great route but I would probably do something different given the chance since the bottom 25 feet are so polished.

CL

Must be called Sims crack. FIRST ASCENT -KEN SIMS-

I'm not sure if this is actually easier for the small handed folks. I have small hands and I can get better jams than some once it gets to the red Camalots, but the bottom is brutal for me, it's sort of just too wide to get any decent ring locks while my friend with much larger hands could actually get some decent locks down there. I guess it's just the same as any other IC route, the difficulty is hand size dependent. Regardless, it's an amazing route.

The scenario you describe for the start is how us midsize hands people feel for 90% of the pitch.