Tarantula offers a left hand start into the same crack system as Gargantua. This route makes a great onsight proposition with nice rests and plenty of protection. The overhanging start throws the hardest moves soon off the ground, and the pumpy hand traverse that leads into the obvious crack is just as exciting. The thin crack above is as fun as it looks, but keep your shoes race-laced for the top out.
The lower crux is well protected by small wires and TCU's. Save a couple hand sized cams for the horizontal below the upper crux. Long slings at the bottom of the route and through the traverse make all the difference on the top out. The route is wonderfully protected.
A fun free climb, and also a very nice route to practice your clean aid on.
By Marty Combs From: Boulder, CO Sep 6, 2008 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
Great 5.10 b lead. I found this climb to be true to its rating, which is uncharacteristic for Devil's lake (Most routes seem to be sand-bagged). The 5.10 section is very fun and overhanging, but not sustained and it protects decently. After the initial moves of 5.10, the rest is a sustained 5.8 hand crack. The 5.10 section protects nicely with a Red #1 BD Camelot and then a green .75 Camelot. Watch out for rope drag.