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A new classic!!! Heresy starts on a flake just left of the Shoes of the Fisherman. Move up and heelhook your way left on huge huecos. Some stick clip first bolt. Move up steep powerful moves on good edges. The crux comes just before the anchors. There are several ways to finish this pumpy climb but any way that you finish you'll have a crowd clapping when your done.
getting past the first clip.
Jerad Friedrichs on Heresy
Matt Johnson on "Heresy" at Smith Rock, OR.
Last move is tricky
The Dyno Variation
First attempted and red pointed 5.11.
Last move on the (successful) red point attempt.
|By mark d|
Mar 11, 2006
everybody likes it.
|By Bryson Slothower|
Mar 23, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
nobody clapped when I was done...
Aug 11, 2006
It's hard to call any route under 30 feet a classic. But this climb does leave you wanting more - and wishing there were more steep yet crimpy sub-5-12 climbs like it at Smith.
May 25, 2009
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
the route should be called frat house
From: Minneapolis, MN
Dec 10, 2009
I agree that this is a great route. It's odd that some have such a negative view of it.
The character of it is certainly different from most of Smith, but I hardly think of this as a reason to deride it. I don't know about the rest of you guys (and gals), but I like it that there's a moderate route in the main area that is clean, fun, and bouldery, and doesn't take thirty minutes for two people to do it.
Mar 7, 2011
If one claims not to like it he or she is a liar. Who doesn't enjoy a nice flat area to chill on and a jungle gym to dick around on?
|By Derrick Peppers|
From: portland, OR
Apr 8, 2011
We did this route with snow falling and blood dripping from a failed Dino straight up the last section. The technical finish works better... Trust me.
|By Mike Rowley|
Feb 15, 2012
IF you can do it, the dyno is the way to go by far. Adds a GREAT ending without the holds to the left. Set the feet WAY higher than you think you need to, and JUMP!! Just make sure to really stare at that hold, or youre gonna miss! Good luck.
|By T Rundle|
Feb 12, 2013
Nice change from everything else at Smith