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Heresy 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ryan Lawson, 1999
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 4,656
Submitted By: Karsten on Feb 2, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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Last move is tricky
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A new classic!!! Heresy starts on a flake just left of the Shoes of the Fisherman. Move up and heelhook your way left on huge huecos. Some stick clip first bolt. Move up steep powerful moves on good edges. The crux comes just before the anchors. There are several ways to finish this pumpy climb but any way that you finish you'll have a crowd clapping when your done.


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Photos of Heresy Slideshow Add Photo
Clip!
Clip!
Starting heresy
BETA PHOTO: Starting heresy
getting past the first clip.
getting past the first clip.
First attempted and red pointed 5.11.
First attempted and red pointed 5.11.
Jerad Friedrichs on Heresy
Jerad Friedrichs on Heresy
clippin'
clippin'
Matt Johnson on "Heresy" at Smith Rock, OR. <br />Photo by: Stuart Meints
Matt Johnson on "Heresy" at Smith Rock, OR.
Photo ...
The Dyno Variation
The Dyno Variation
Heresy
Heresy
Last move on the (successful) red point attempt.
Last move on the (successful) red point attempt.
Heresy
Heresy
Heresy crux
BETA PHOTO: Heresy crux
Comments on Heresy Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 24, 2014
By mark d
Mar 11, 2006

everybody likes it.

By Bryson Slothower
Mar 23, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

nobody clapped when I was done...

By bryans
Aug 11, 2006

It's hard to call any route under 30 feet a classic. But this climb does leave you wanting more - and wishing there were more steep yet crimpy sub-5-12 climbs like it at Smith.

By Bickle
May 25, 2009
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

the route should be called frat house

By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Dec 10, 2009

I agree that this is a great route. It's odd that some have such a negative view of it.
The character of it is certainly different from most of Smith, but I hardly think of this as a reason to deride it. I don't know about the rest of you guys (and gals), but I like it that there's a moderate route in the main area that is clean, fun, and bouldery, and doesn't take thirty minutes for two people to do it.

By Costigan
Mar 7, 2011

If one claims not to like it he or she is a liar. Who doesn't enjoy a nice flat area to chill on and a jungle gym to dick around on?

By Derrick Peppers
From: portland, OR
Apr 8, 2011

We did this route with snow falling and blood dripping from a failed Dino straight up the last section. The technical finish works better... Trust me.

By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
Feb 15, 2012

IF you can do it, the dyno is the way to go by far. Adds a GREAT ending without the holds to the left. Set the feet WAY higher than you think you need to, and JUMP!! Just make sure to really stare at that hold, or youre gonna miss! Good luck.

By T Rundle
From: Belltown
Feb 12, 2013

Nice change from everything else at Smith

By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Feb 24, 2014

I once saw a guy trying to stick clip the chains on this.

By another Chad
Feb 24, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

"I once saw a guy trying to stick clip the chains on this."

That wouldn't invalidate a lead attempt would it?

Chad