Pull through some traverse moves on good holds to the first bolt, then enjoy technical climbing on edges and pockets for about 60 feet up to a roof. Massive jugs and an easy pull await you. Run it out above the roof on the right to the last bolt and another move before the first pitch anchor. The first pitch gets a 5.10c rating.
The second pitch goes at 5.10d and brings you up to the top of the wall.
Left end of the Red Wall, just right of the short wall containing Dances with Clams
Pitch 1 - 12 bolts
Pitch 2 - 13 bolts
|By Jeff Hebert|
From: Seattle, WA
May 29, 2012
I only climbed the first pitch and was just barely able to stretch a 60m rope to the ground. Another group went up the second pitch ahead of us and said it was phenomenal.
Oct 4, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I'm not sure why this would get an R rating, nothing too scary here.
Oct 21, 2013
I don't understand why this is rated as 4 stars in the Alan Watts guide. The rock quality on the second pitch is terrible and the movement is less than intuitive. Pebbles are everywhere and many sections have rock that you can just flake off the wall with minimal force. Both belays are hanging belays.
The R rating is due to the clipping position on bolt #2 on the second pitch, in which a fall would make you deck on the large ledge to the right of the belay anchors. This section just got slightly more difficult this weekend when the only jug broke off (hand for first clip, foot for second).
I'd do the first pitch again, but if I wanted to top out Red Wall I'd do Orgasmagoria, which is a far superior multi.