Patrick Deegan > Comments

Jun 1, 2026 Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 05 - Po… > 3. Doorway Rock… > Lower Major Mass Sure Shot 5.3 ● head climber's left from the ledge before the finish, or be ready to get evergreen tree sapped. same grade,… View Comment
Jun 1, 2026 Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 05 - Po… > 3. Doorway Rock… > Lower Major Mass Hard Times 5.4 ● I thought the best ending for this route was to finish atop the obvious little tower. The ascent of this to… View Comment
May 18, 2026 Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 05 - Po… > 4. Doorway Rocks - Mi… Chen's Traverse 5.5 ● I updated the YDS grade on this route to reflect user sentiment. The original SM grade is 5.3, but several… View Comment
Nov 17, 2025 Joshua Tree NP > Lost Horse Area > Lost Horse Wall > Lost Horse Wall - Rig… Altitude Sickness 5.10a ● this route is accurately mapped out in this photo as the "5.9" left-side finish in the link below; i think… View Comment
Nov 17, 2025 Joshua Tree NP > Lost Horse Area > Lost Horse Wall > Lost Horse Wall… > Altitude Sickness (5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a) Finishing via the left side big bombay roof, the one that would most likely induce altitude sickness. Having done all three roof finishes, felt this one the most enjoyable, even tho not the hardest. Photo by Jill. Jan 2016. ● this left side looks fun, but is not "altitude sickness," which is much further to the right. There are ok… View Comment
Aug 27, 2025 Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E… > 17: Hawk's Nest > Happy Hunting Grounds (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R) Pulling through the cool little roof at 2/3 height and above the crux. There is a final cool little roof at the top. Check out all the pro placed to protect the crux. ● can verify that 17 years later the pro before the crux hasn't changed. small wires for the win. View Comment
Aug 4, 2025 Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E… > 17: Hawk's Nest Alpha Centauri 5.10d R ● The pin above the opening crux is now bomber. Thank you anonymous route angel(s). View Comment
May 19, 2024 Lower Peninsula > Grand Ledge (ak… > Top Rope Almost Worthwhile 5.9 ● not worthwhile. the final roof is choss and feels ready to break off under weight. getting up to the roof h… View Comment
May 19, 2024 Lower Peninsula > Grand Ledge (ak… > Top Rope One For the Road AKA One Last Time 5.10a ● I think this is one of the best routes for the grade at the Ledge. Up to and after the crux has thoughtful… View Comment
Apr 3, 2024 Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Courthouse Rock Standard Route 4th ● As of 4/24 there is a piece of midroute tat and quicklink slung on the rock feature. No doubt an option for… View Comment
Dec 11, 2023 Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Johnny's Wall 59" DrillBitch 5.10a ● very fun. possibly one of the best 10a routes for those seeking the grade: good technical movement that is… View Comment
Dec 3, 2023 Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Tower Rock > Tower of Power (5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R) Tower of Power (5.9 pitch one, and 5.10 pitch two POWER). Note that FA Larry Day calls ToP a 2-pitch route, ignoring "The Corner" as a separate route. ● Thanks for the clarification, Larry. View Comment
Nov 4, 2023 Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Dunkan Rock Frenchburg Overhangs 5.8 ● Added webbing to the top of pitch 2 (purple); removed piece of gnarl rope tat. Three other slings in variou… View Comment
Oct 18, 2023 Grand County /… > Hurd Creek Crag > Upper Wall Pat's Pissed 5.9+ ● Kevin, I wonder if users can attach a long draw to this bolt via a stickclip - a 90cm sling (or longer) wou… View Comment
Sep 17, 2023 Lower Peninsula > Grand Ledge (ak… > Top Rope > Rocket Man (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b) Start of crux on Rocketman ● this photo looks like the climber has reached for the right hold on Astral Projection, instead of solving t… View Comment
Sep 17, 2023 Lower Peninsula > Grand Ledge (ak… > Top Rope Rocket Man 5.10 ● Doing this route in the classic style, without the right-side Astral Projection holds, may not make the rou… View Comment
Sep 3, 2023 Lower Peninsula > Grand Ledge (ak… > Top Rope Intimidator 5.11 ● Sequential, technique-friendly start to the ledge—left hand side pull to right hand on the high friction sl… View Comment
Aug 29, 2023 Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 05 - Po… > 3. Doorway Rock… > Upper Major Mass & Ju… Grandpa's Second Wind (5.11R) 5.7 ● the 2016 Knower book calls this route Grandpa's Second Wind 5.11R. The climb to the ledge is ballpark 7, bu… View Comment
Aug 28, 2023 Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > Linkups, Contri… > E Bluff Linkups Massive Major Multi-Pitch 5.7 ● This multi gets all the linkup stars for me. I thought that the crux of Mindless was a grade harder than Jo… View Comment
Mar 27, 2023 Red River Gorge > Natural Bridge… > Emerald City Whiteout 5.8 ● it's a tight fit for 3 climbers at the top bolts (2nd pitch). so i opted to crawl up onto the narrow ledge… View Comment
Mar 27, 2023 Red River Gorge > Natural Bridge… > Emerald City The Shining 5.9 ● it is also possible to stick-clip a #5 (red) DMM offset without a sling right at the "nose" on the start, t… View Comment
Mar 27, 2023 Red River Gorge > Natural Bridge… > Emerald City Sharp 5.9- ● i found the cruxes on Sharp tougher than Shining farther to the right. Sharp is an excellent climb. though… View Comment
Dec 3, 2022 Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Hideout Born Again Christian 5.8 ● This line is everything its name conveys: will you be enlightened, will you curse at it, will you make deal… View Comment
Dec 3, 2022 Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Hideout Call of the Wild 5.7 ● Don't stop at the lower Druid anchors—take this to the top. A #4 protects the final overhang, which is a su… View Comment
Aug 29, 2022 Grand County /… > Hurd Creek Crag > Lower Wall Rumney 5.11c ● Thanks for the route maintenance, Kevin. View Comment
Jun 20, 2022 Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Stadium ED 5.7 ● it climbs like the Muir Valley version of Mailbox (Long Wall, North Gorge), but without the off width ramp… View Comment
May 8, 2022 Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > W Bluff 03 - Cl… > Turk's Head Zor the Mantle 5.9+ ● really good movement on this one at almost every point, but especially pulling the roof into the thin crack… View Comment
Apr 20, 2022 Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge Purple Valley ● as of 4/2/2022 the road was still closed at the 9A/9B split. Long walk (4+ miles) on service roads. View Comment
Apr 7, 2022 Red River Gorge > Natural Bridge… > Graining Fork N… > I Didn't Know This Wa… (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R) View back down the final 15m. Lichen and moss 2-3" deep; beautiful to look at but just wretched for climbing—no pro options here at all, so just careful careful, hence the R. Big tree at the top (not pictured here) is solid anchor. Getting there is ugly ● the lichen + moss comes off easily, and the surface below is very sandy-dusty and not readily usable. feet… View Comment
Apr 3, 2022 Red River Gorge > Natural Bridge… > Graining Fork Nature… I Didn't Know This Was The End 5.7 R ● This route is sandbagged at 7. Pro is ok, but many options are just so-so: dirty and friable rock in many p… View Comment
Mar 14, 2022 Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Long Wall Mailbox 5.8+ ● as mentioned, the bolts here are about 1.5m left of the crack top out. bring another 1.5m of anchor materia… View Comment
Nov 22, 2021 Grand County /… > Hurd Creek Crag If you have a 4x4, Hurd Creed Rd. is the fastest but can be confusing because the public roads go around private property, and the road is pretty rough - high clearance is required. Waterboard Rd. is very mellow, easy to get through, and less confusing. ● We timed travel on both roads, and the Waterboard Rd. route took roughly 10 minutes longer (the 4x4 road in… View Comment
Aug 16, 2021 Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > W Bluff 03 - Cl… > Turk's Head Belly Flop 5.6 ● although the beginning is fairly tame, the finish on the left side route over the roof is just excellent fu… View Comment
Jul 21, 2021 Grand County /… > Hurd Creek Crag > First Wall Split Personality 5.8+ ● Maybe I had a high gravity day, maybe it’s a touch sandbagged, whatever: I’d climb it again. Lots of fun. View Comment
Jul 21, 2021 Grand County /… > Hurd Creek Crag > First Wall In the Groove 5.9+ ● A great route with an easy but fun start. The crux is between bolts 4 & 5, which one can see as the smoothe… View Comment
Jul 21, 2021 Grand County /… > Hurd Creek Crag > First Wall Michele's Crack 5.8 ● The crux was in the first 2-3 meters for me, between pro 1 and 2. Three or four pieces of pro total for me:… View Comment

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Patrick Deegan > Comments

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