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Elevation: 4,100 ft 1,250 m
GPS: 34.0213, -116.1793
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Mike Morley on Jun 14, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Lost Horse Area covers popular rocks including The Lost Horse Wall, Hemingway Buttress, Dairy Queen Wall, Freeway Wall, Shorter Wall, Tiny Tots, Atlantis Wall, and others. Count on crowds at popular areas such as DQ, Hemingway, and Lost Horse Wall. Shorter Wall and Atlantis are popular with larger groups due to the high density of moderates. The South Side of Lost Horse Wall boasts some of the longer routes in the Park including classics Dappled Mare and Bird on a Wire (not to be confused with 'Bird of Fire' - that's in a completely different area!).

Getting There Suggest change

The Lost Horse section on Mountain Project is located between the Quail Springs and Hidden Valley Campground Areas. The dividing line used to separate these two sections is the obvious wash that is just east of the Boy Scout/Willow Hole parking area. Cliffs to the west (toward Joshua Tree) are in Quail Springs section, crags to the east (toward Hidden Valley) are in the Lost Horse section.

 Approach via the designated Hemingway parking area along Quail Springs Road for the following rocks: DQ, IRS, Copenhagen, Hemingway. Approach along the dirt road to Lost Horse Ranger Station (several pullouts, but limited parking) for the following: Freeway Wall, Tiny Tots, Rock Garden, Shorter Wall, Lost Horse, and Atlantis.

709 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lost Horse Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 457
Double Dogleg
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 969
White Lightning
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 711
Dappled Mare
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 429
Overseer
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 474
Tax Man
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 453
Bird on a Wire
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 355
Prepackaged
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 397
Poodles are People Too
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 125
Anacram
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 126
Imaginary Voyage
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 115
Alf's Arete
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 55
LA Woman
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 53
Scary Poodles
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 33
29 Palms
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 19
The Acid Crack
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Double Dogleg Rock Garden Valley > Rock Garden Valley -…
 457
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
White Lightning Lost Horse Rdsi… > Hemingway Buttress > Hemingway Buttress (E…
 969
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Dappled Mare Lost Horse Wall > Lost Horse Wall - Rig…
 711
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Overseer Lost Horse Rdsi… > Hemingway Buttress > Hemingway Buttress (E…
 429
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Tax Man Lost Horse Rdsi… > IRS Wall
 474
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Bird on a Wire Lost Horse Wall > Lost Horse Wall - Rig…
 453
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Prepackaged Lost Horse Rdsi… > Hemingway Buttress > Hemingway Buttress (E…
 355
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Poodles are People Too Lost Horse Rdsi… > Hemingway Buttress > Hemingway Buttress (E…
 397
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Anacram Freeway Wall > Upper Freeway Wall
 125
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Imaginary Voyage Imaginary Voyage Form…
 126
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Alf's Arete Lost Horse Rdsi… > IRS Wall
 115
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
LA Woman Lost Horse Wall > Lost Horse Wall - Lef…
 55
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Scary Poodles Lost Horse Rdsi… > Hemingway Buttress > Hemingway Buttress (E…
 53
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
29 Palms Arid Piles > Arid Piles - Northwes…
 33
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
The Acid Crack Arid Piles > Arid Piles - Southwes…
 19
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Lost Horse Area »

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