Elevation: 4,172 ft
GPS: 34.024, -116.178 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 112,825 total · 482/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Jun 23, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

Description

Hemingway is the large rock closest to the main park road in the Lost Horse area. Most of the climbs are on the east side of the buttress, so it can be a nice place to climb when it's hot out. Lots of great climbs, and most are fairly steep with great holds. Favorites include White Lightning (5.7), Overseer (5.9), as well as a bunch of fun routes with "Poodle" in the name.

Getting There

Hemingway is close the the intersection of the main park road and the Lost Horse road. Now that the NPS has redone the road, there's a parking area on the side of the main road labelled "Hemingway Rock." It's just east of the Lost Horse Road. Park there and head south, a couple hundred yards to the first large rock.

Descent

Two bolted rap routes: one near the top of White Lightning requires two ropes, a 70m, or some down-scrambling at the bottom; the other is further west and gets you all the way down on a single rope.

57 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hemingway Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 796
White Lightning
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 303
Dung Fu
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 104
Funky Dung
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 220
Feltonian Physics
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 363
Overseer
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 57
For Whom the Poodle Tolls
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 41
A Farewell to Poodles
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 129
Head Over Heals
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 305
Prepackaged
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
 20
Pig in Heat
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 330
Poodles are People Too
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 22
Astropoodle
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 71
The Importance of Being Ernest
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 44
Scary Poodles
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
White Lightning Hemingway Buttress (E…
 796
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Dung Fu Hemingway Buttress (E…
 303
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Funky Dung Hemingway Buttress (E…
 104
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Feltonian Physics Hemingway Buttress (E…
 220
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie Hemingway Buttress (E…
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Overseer Hemingway Buttress (E…
 363
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
For Whom the Poodle Tolls Hemingway Buttress (E…
 57
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
A Farewell to Poodles Hemingway Buttress (E…
 41
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Head Over Heals Hemingway Buttress (E…
 129
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Prepackaged Hemingway Buttress (E…
 305
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Pig in Heat Hemingway Buttress (E…
 20
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X Trad
Poodles are People Too Hemingway Buttress (E…
 330
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Astropoodle Hemingway Buttress (E…
 22
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
The Importance of Being Ernest Hemingway Buttress (E…
 71
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad
Scary Poodles Hemingway Buttress (E…
 44
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Hemingway Buttress »

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