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Areas in Hemingway Buttress

Hemingway Buttress (East Face Center) 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left) 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Hemingway Buttress (East Face Right) 16 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Hemingway Buttress (West Face) 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Elevation: 4,172 ft
GPS: 34.024, -116.178 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 42,402 total, 225/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Jun 23, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Hemingway is the large rock closest to the main park road in the Lost Horse area. Most of the climbs are on the east side of the buttress, so it can be a nice place to climb when it's hot out. Lots of great climbs, and most are fairly steep with great holds. Favorites include White Lightning (5.7), Overseer (5.9), as well as a bunch of fun routes with "Poodle" in the name.

Getting There

Hemingway is close the the intersection of the main park road and the Lost Horse road. Now that the NPS has redone the road, there's a parking area on the side of the main road labelled "Hemingway Rock." It's just east of the Lost Horse Road. Park there and head south, a couple hundred yards to the first large rock.

Descent

Two bolted rap routes: one near the top of White Lightning requires two ropes, a 70m, or some down-scrambling at the bottom; the other is further west and gets you all the way down on a single rope.

50 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hemingway Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Lightning
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5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dung Fu
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5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Funky Dung
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5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feltonian Physics
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5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overseer
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5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
For Whom the Poodle Tolls
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5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smoke-a-Bowl
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5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Golden Years
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5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Head Over Heals
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5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prepackaged
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5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poodles are People Too
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5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Astropoodle
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5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
The Importance of Being Ernest
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5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scary Poodles
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5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
The Roadrunner
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Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
White Lightning Hemingway Buttress (E Face Left) 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Dung Fu Hemingway Buttress (E Face Left) 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Funky Dung Hemingway Buttress (E Face Left) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Feltonian Physics Hemingway Buttress (E Face Left) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Overseer Hemingway Buttress (E Face Left) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
For Whom the Poodle Tolls Hemingway Buttress (E Face Right) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Smoke-a-Bowl Hemingway Buttress (E Face Left) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Golden Years Hemingway Buttress (E Face Left) 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Head Over Heals Hemingway Buttress (E Face Right) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Prepackaged Hemingway Buttress (E Face Left) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Poodles are People Too Hemingway Buttress (E Face Left) 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Astropoodle Hemingway Buttress (E Face Right) 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
The Importance of Being Ernest Hemingway Buttress (E Face Center) 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad
Scary Poodles Hemingway Buttress (E Face Center) 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
The Roadrunner Hemingway Buttress (E Face Left) 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Hemingway Buttress »

Weather Averages

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C Miller   CA  
Don't forget the search feature which is a handy tool to help locate a route or area. Dec 18, 2009
Ryan Kelly
work.
Ryan Kelly   work.
Hmm, so Murf was behind this, I should have figured. I find it very cumbersome to navigate all broken up. Dec 18, 2009
Murf  
Hemingway seems very cumbersome as currently laid out. Anyone else in favor of splitting into a minimum of West Face, East Face Left (RoadRunner through Death in the Afternoon ), and East Face Right(Scary Poodles to Raven DNTTMB)? Maybe even split the East face into three section?

Thanks Chris, I like how it is laid out like JTW. Oct 5, 2009
Blitzo  
Anonymous Coward, that's the Cohn property. It's cool, lots of rock, but only a few of us are allowed to climb there. Everyone else will be shot at if they trespass. Look at it and drool, but don't go there! Mar 1, 2008
What's the deal with the house you can see from the top of Hemingway buttress across the road? Is it a private home? If so they are stoked! Sep 20, 2004

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