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Elevation: 4,172 ft 1,272 m
GPS: 34.02394, -116.17787
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 139,039 total · 521/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Jun 23, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Hemingway is the large rock closest to the main park road in the Lost Horse area. Most of the climbs are on the east side of the buttress, so it can be a nice place to climb when it's hot out. Lots of great climbs, and most are fairly steep with great holds. Favorites include White Lightning (5.7), Overseer (5.9), as well as a bunch of fun routes with "Poodle" in the name.

Getting There Suggest change

Hemingway is close the the intersection of the main park road and the Lost Horse road. Now that the NPS has redone the road, there's a parking area on the side of the main road labelled "Hemingway Rock." It's just east of the Lost Horse Road. Park there and head south, a couple hundred yards to the first large rock.

Descent

Suggest change
Two bolted rap routes: one near the top of White Lightning requires two ropes, a 70m, or some down-scrambling at the bottom; the other is further west and gets you all the way down on a single rope.

58 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hemingway Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 968
White Lightning
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 387
Dung Fu
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 140
Funky Dung
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 263
Feltonian Physics
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 36
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 429
Overseer
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 68
For Whom the Poodle Tolls
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 164
Head Over Heals
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 355
Prepackaged
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Overseer Direct
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 396
Poodles are People Too
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 24
Astropoodle
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 79
The Importance of Being Ernest
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 53
Scary Poodles
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 13
The Roadrunner
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
White Lightning Hemingway Buttress (E…
 968
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Dung Fu Hemingway Buttress (E…
 387
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Funky Dung Hemingway Buttress (E…
 140
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Feltonian Physics Hemingway Buttress (E…
 263
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie Hemingway Buttress (E…
 36
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Overseer Hemingway Buttress (E…
 429
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
For Whom the Poodle Tolls Hemingway Buttress (E…
 68
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Head Over Heals Hemingway Buttress (E…
 164
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Prepackaged Hemingway Buttress (E…
 355
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Overseer Direct Hemingway Buttress (E…
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Poodles are People Too Hemingway Buttress (E…
 396
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Astropoodle Hemingway Buttress (E…
 24
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
The Importance of Being Ernest Hemingway Buttress (E…
 79
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad
Scary Poodles Hemingway Buttress (E…
 53
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
The Roadrunner Hemingway Buttress (E…
 13
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Hemingway Buttress »

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