Avg: 2.7 from 365 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Bob Dominick and John Wolfe, April 1976|
|Page Views:||19,604 total · 82/month|
|Shared By:||Rob "rk" Kalinowski on Apr 11, 2002 · Updates|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
This is overall, a mellow, very enjoyable 3-pitch climb on a warm, interesting wall. As you hike up to the base, but before you get there, while you still have a good view of the wall, locate the big brown splotch or dot, and then the brown ring with the lighter rock inside (looks vaguely like the sun) which is above it to the right of the first spot. There is also a less obvious ring below and left of the dot, which if you are very hot and dehydrated, might look like a sun with a big flame on it. [All guides since 2006 show route correctly] Once you find the "sun" and other dot I talked about, look for an obvious horizontal ledge below it. Look left and below, following that ledge until you see an obvious crack, which starts from the ground, angling up and to the right and then to the left. This is your start. Hike up and begin.
P1: Short, but tons of rope drag. Start on the crack (5.6) described above, until you reach the ledge, and begin to traverse right (5.6). Leaders, don't forget to protect your followers here. They could be in danger of decking with a swing if they fall here if you don't protect this traverse. Move to the right, until you see an obvious crack/small chimney and go up. Set a belay in the slot about 10 - 15 ft above, where it is comfortable. This will be just to the left of the burning sun. ha ha. I'm serious.
P2: Head up above the crack/chimney, then stay right up a thinner crack until you can face climb up and right into another crack that becomes a left facing dihedral. Belay on a ledge in the dihedral.
P3: Continue up the corner until you are about 15 or 20 feet below an overhang atop the dihedral. At this point, make a somewhat un-obvious traverse right and up onto and the around the arete of the corner system (5.7). Face climbing above this will lead to the crack system of Dappled Mare. Continue up the somewhat discontinuous cracks (5.7) up to the summit of the formation. Top out, set up an anchor and belay. Congrats!
Descent: To return to your bags, head right, then down a short distance off the back of the formation into a gully of sorts. Continue down and right through slabs and boulders. With a bit of route finding, it won't exceed class 3.
[Delete this comment, but the original description of pitch 2 is completely wrong. Following the crack up and left is not the route and has lead to a number of climbers getting lost. W e had to "rescue a group of climbers last weekend who followed the description as originally posted and couldn't figure out how to get back right (or surmount the overhangs) to back on route.Also, references to the very early Josh Classic guide - long out of print - are not relevant. Josh West (2006), Miramontes' guides (all 3 editions), Joshua Classic Routes & Boulders (2010), Joshua Tree Climbs (2015) and Bob Gaines Selected guide ALL describe the route correctly.]