All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Natio… > Lost Horse Area > Lost Horse Wall > Lost Horse Wall - Right Side
Avg: 2.6 from 263 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Bob Dominick and John Wolfe, April 1976|
|Page Views:||13,707 total · 71/month|
|Shared By:||Rob "rk" Kalinowski on Apr 11, 2002|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis is overall, a mellow, very enjoyable 3-pitch climb on a warm, interesting wall. As you hike up to the base, but before you get there, while you still have a good view of the wall, locate the big brown splotch or dot, and then the brown ring with the lighter rock inside (looks vaguely like the sun) which is above it to the right of the first spot. There is also a less obvious ring below and left of the dot, which if you are very hot and dehydrated, might look like a sun with a big flame on it. In Randy Vogel's Classic Rock, J-Tree (condensed version), the route picture is incorrect - it should be to the right of the line he draws. And in his J-Tree book (old version, the light purple one) it is not so clear either. Once you find the "sun" and other dot I talked about, look for an obvious horizontal ledge below it. Look left and below, following that ledge until you see an obvious crack, which starts from the ground, angling up and to the right and then to the left. This is your start. Hike up and begin.
P1: Short, but tons of rope drag. Start on the (_) crack (6) I described above, until you reach the ledge, and begin to traverse right (6). Leaders, don't forget to protect your followers here. They could be in danger of decking with a swing if they fall here if you don't protect this traverse. Move to the right, until you see an obvious crack/small chimney and go up. Set a belay in the slot about 10 - 15 ft above, where it is comfortable. This will be just to the left of the burning sun. ha ha. I'm serious.
P2: Wonderful climbing, the best pitch on the route! If you have a 60m rope, you can get to a very cool ledge. Continue up and to the left, following an obvious crack system and enjoy some easy, straightforward climbing. I would say climbing here will not exceed 5.6. I was expecting much harder for a (7) after Double Cross... Very delightful thought, the holds are solid and gear is excellent. Continue up, the crack turns into some steps and then kind of a left facing dihedral/crack. Eventually, you will see a giant block on your left with a wide ledge. Throw in some pro in the crack, and in that ledge, and belay.
P3: Ah, the joys of an Internet climbing site, where updates to bad pictures or vague route descriptions can be made. I will be putting up my (10d) A1 variation soon, but in the mean time, I'll describe this so you don't have to that. ha ha. OK, get back into the crack, and where convenient, move up and to the right onto the arête. This is the crux (7) and much more run out then the rest of the route, but very grippy (frictiony - hey, let me make up these words!) and you will get to easier rock soon! This move avoids the roofs that you see directly above your last belay, which are, trust me, harder then 5.7! Continue up the arête, onto easier ground, and pick a line to the summit. The climbing here can become more of a scramble at times, but hey, you are near the summit. Remember to use slings, especially at the start, so you won't feel like you are pulling up the rest of your party while leading because of rope drag.
Top out, set up an anchor and belay. Congrats! To return to your bags, downclimb to the right, (south) down some slabs and boulders. With a bit of route finding, it won't exceed class 3.