Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: John Long and Richard Harrison, 1977
Page Views: 10,740 total · 52/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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You are made to respect this route early, as you have to crawl to the base, located in an alcove. The exposure starts here, with the alcove 30 feet above the talus, and the valley spread out a few hundred feet below.

A stiff layback starts out the route, keep pulling until you feel the opposite wall at your back. Continue to the handrail, traverse into the light, and contemplate the move over the roof. The exposure is thrilling at this point, enjoy it. Pull the move, clipping the bolts, and clamber to the top.

Descend via a chimmney to the back (Wild Gravity) of the formation.


Good range from finger sized to 3-4 inch, 2 bolts (1/4", 5/16").
Back in the day, Dick Cilly TR'd the offwidth roof crack direct!!! Probably 5.HARD Dec 18, 2003
We went out there Sunday to check it out. Seemed like it would be difficult/awkward to protect the roof move(s). I am wondering if people use a big cam at the lip, and if so, will a #4 camalot work or do you have to bring a #5 up there? Nov 29, 2004
Ran it out. Nov 29, 2004
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
My recollection of the gear is this - after getting a piece in the horizontal rail (near the lip) you make some cool, airy moves across to the stance with the two bolts and then finish up the wide crack above. You may want a 4" piece (a #5 Camalot will most likely be too large) after the bolts, but if you've made it that far you shouldn't need it as it gets low-angled after a move or two. Nov 29, 2004
Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Sorry Sewell... never happened. Cilley never tried it.

I tried it on toprope but it was too contrived as you bang into the walls with your head and back and whatnot. Got out a ways and gave up due to the fact you could probaby just chimney the thing. Here is a pic of the TR try.....

fishproducts.com/supertopo/… Dec 5, 2006
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
The most memorable route I've done in the monument. Five stars for the novelty value and position.

Chris's gear notes are right on the money. Largest piece we had was a #4 camalot and used that at the beginning of the roof. There's a large slung chockstone at the start of the roof about where we placed the 4, so you could potentially leave the big cams at home. Jan 16, 2007
John D
John D  
I placed a 4.5 after the chockstone. Apr 9, 2007
Scotty Nelson
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
I wonder how people protected this route back in the day (without a big cam)? Did they tie off the chockstone, or just run it out to the lip? Feb 26, 2008
Ryan Kelly
Ryan Kelly   work.
If you can get up the lieback at the start then doing the traverse without pro really shouldn't be much of an issue; the edge is quite positive. However, there's webbing hanging off the chockstone, so why not. May 14, 2008
Santa Cruz, CA
sam.f   Santa Cruz, CA
I guess this is a bit more updated beta, but I definitely didn't see a threaded chockstone, much less any chockstone at all. FYI. Mar 18, 2009
John Long
Venice, CA
John Long   Venice, CA
The exciting thing on the FA was that we hadn't top roped the thing first and didn't know it it would go or how hard the lip was going to be. So that made it tricky traversing out there with no pro wondering what if anything I might get in out there. That fact that the lower crack is the crux was not imaginable on the FA, the upper b it looked so hard. Go figure . . . Jul 19, 2011
Possibly my favorite 5.10 out there and--Echoing John's comments--also one of my proudest leads. When I cast off on the thing it was a true onsight. I had no beta at all, no idea about the handrail, etc. Really felt like I was going for it on something that looks way more desperate than it is. I too was shocked to find the first 10 feet are the crux... Dec 8, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
This is a total circus trick hoot of a climb. I do it every time I visit Jtree for the novelty and to scare the hell out of whomever I am with. Once under the route looking up everyone I have taken refuses to lead it (the first time) even though the crux is in the first 10 feet (you can't see the hand rail so assume you will be offwidthing the roof). Anyone who has not done this route really needs to get on it - totally safe and good protection with unbelievable position. At the final roof you can even get leg jams and hang upside down for a hero shot if you want. Mar 21, 2012
J Kazu
Los Angeles, CA
J Kazu   Los Angeles, CA
An appropriate name for a visionary route. Pure joy leading this. Feb 7, 2015
One of my favorites at Jtree. The starting lay back is a bear! Feb 13, 2015
Matt Hagny
Matt Hagny  
5 stars! My new favorite in the park! Nov 22, 2017
Jake Ramsey
Yosemite, CA
Jake Ramsey   Yosemite, CA
Holy hell the layback is so slick!!! Worse than any route I’ve done in the valley. A #5 would be nice to protect the start of the traverse out the roof, a #4 is too small. Mar 1, 2018