Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tim Powell and Dan Ahlborn, April 1976
Page Views: 17,567 total · 84/month
Shared By: Steve Juhasz on Jan 2, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

311 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Definitely one of the most fun and exciting 5.10 pitches in the park. After a cruxy face start, the steep and excellent crack provides solid gear all the way up and a pump that makes reaching the bolted anchor a good challenge. With its excellent pro and steepness, this route makes a good first 5.10 lead.


Full rack, small stoppers to 3.5" cam.
Jamie Silliman
Folsom, CA
Jamie Silliman   Folsom, CA
This route is super high quality. It's mostly crack moves. A fairly longish approach, unless you possibly come in by the Dairy Queen Wall. It protects very well too, but is a stiff 10a lead. I was able to onsight okay myself. Apr 14, 2003
The IRS wall may be a "fairly long approach" by the standards of the Old Woman or Intersection Rock, but in general, I'd say the approach is actually quite short. For long approaches in JT, see something more along the lines of Super Dome or the Poodle Smasher. Apr 14, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Eats stoppers, will take cams in small sizes. This line can take a #2 or #3 camalot, but it's not crux pro and not necessary. If you can beat the first 4 meters of climbing, you have it made. Pro it up down low and then go for it. Apr 15, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
I didn't find the bolted anchor Steve mentions in the route description. We ended up rapping off of a smallish shrub/tree to climber's right. Oct 23, 2003
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Good climbing with thin fingers down low, gear protected face climbing with the odd jam in the middle and hand jams to finish. Bouldery down low with a definite crux and it remains steep and continuous for the duration. Three stars out of five. Nov 10, 2003
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Okay so call me a clutz, as far as the approach being no big deal; I broke my ankle on the approach once - had my brand new sticky approach shoes on and they weren't as sticky as I thought. Taped up and did Tax Man, Alf's Arete, Head Over Heals, and Fusion Without Integrity, there was no way I was going to waste such a perfect day. Paid for it later though... Jan 24, 2005
Edward Jenner
Edward Jenner  
I agree this is a stiff 10a - especially compared with other 10a's in the area.

Slipped off leading this, only to slip of again on the same move on TR. Feet seem to be the key.

Super fun climbing. Nov 1, 2006
Pat W  
J tree classic. Cruxy early, and as all cracks are, size dependant. For big paws (like myself), the start is definately no 10a, just tips. Nonetheless, a beautiful clean crack surrounded by nice patina, with great gear the whole way. 5.10 a/b+. Aug 16, 2007
laguna beach, ca
Shipp   laguna beach, ca
10b/c bottom move and 10a the rest of the way. Or maybe I just bite in cracks nowadays. Jan 23, 2009
Chris M
Hailey, ID
Chris M   Hailey, ID
Well worth the approach (hey, we're in JTree here). Beautiful fingerlocks up this steep and classically J-Tree-esque line. Found a BD #4 useful on the upper slot. Oct 26, 2009
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
As of 12/15/09 a two bolt anchor with chains was at the top left of this climb. Dec 18, 2009
Simon H
Oakland, CA
Simon H   Oakland, CA
This Route is going to be on the cover of Randy Vogel's new Guide!

This is probably the most fun route I've done in the park. It has an interesting combination of perfect rock, fingerlocks, tufas, all types of jams and very straightforward gear. You should really climb this if you haven't Feb 8, 2011
Brighton, CO
plantmandan   Brighton, CO
I loved this route!!! Great moves and ample pro placements. Climbed it on a Saturday in mid October, and there were no other parties on the whole IRS Wall while Dairy Queen Wall and Hemmingway looked like mosh pits. It couldn't have been sweeter. Absolute classic! Apr 21, 2011
Climbed it today, when I finally got to the base I thought to myself, "Damn, that was a long approach!" Glad I'm not the only Sally here. Bolts and chains in good shape. It is possible to TR, but you'll have to do a few exposed 5.easy moves to get up there. The crux is low, and dont forget about the last couple moves before topping out! Great climb. Dec 7, 2011
Kevin Dahlstrom
Boulder, CO
5.10b/c PG13
Kevin Dahlstrom   Boulder, CO
5.10b/c PG13
Stiff crux (10b/c?) down low then 5.9 the rest of the way. I have sausage fingers and big feet so it was easiest to lieback the crux. Jan 17, 2012
Olympia, WA
Drederek   Olympia, WA
One of the best 10a pitches I've done. Not a good first 5.10 lead but certainly easily protectable. Was a bit stiff onsight but much easier on tr. A solid pinky jam down low and a sinker hand jam with barely enough room for a gold camalot above it were two very memorable parts. Mar 31, 2012
From what I've done at J-tree route seems a wee stiff for 10a but i'd say 10a is pretty fair. it would def be 10a in the valley. can't wait to go back and send this thing. i botched the crux and pulled out a yellow and orange metollius..took a ground fall and shattered my ankle. good lesson to learn. i think my bottom piece walked and the orange metollius was kinda shit. regardless..get after it! such a nice little splitter...sorry for the blood at the base...tried to clean it up. Nov 20, 2013
Scott Scharfenberg
Santa Barbara, CA
Scott Scharfenberg   Santa Barbara, CA
TR'ed this on 11/30/2013. The first 20 or so feet are quite thin, and in my opinion the crux of the climb. My buddy took a few whips on a #00 C3 before getting past that section--definitely gave me faith in small gear.

The climbing was really diverse and all was excellent quality. I'll definitely come back and lead this climb very soon. Dec 4, 2013
Kyle S
Kyle S  
Very well protected. If you like fingers and can handle insecure feet, the low crux may feel easier. The midsection felt the most challenging to me, which given all the different comments above shows the incredible diversity of climbing and style required in this 100' pitch. Jump on this route - you won't be disappointed! Dec 4, 2015
Just got done w/an 8 day trip in the park where we climbed a number of the classics at 10a: Tossed Green, R. Baskerville, Exorcist, Bird of Fire... This one felt the hardest of the lot. Fantastic route in any case. Dec 31, 2017
Daniel Evans
Phoenix, AZ
Daniel Evans   Phoenix, AZ
Felt equally as hard and sustained as Illusion Dweller. Jan 10, 2018