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Cockroach Crag Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Cockroach Crag

L › R R › L A › Z

	Classic Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Climb Of The Cockroaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	False Classic Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Insector Gadget TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Leatherhead Arete, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	R.S. Chicken Choker T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Roach Coach TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Roach Motel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Roach Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Thumby Bloody Thumby T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	4,222 ft	1,287 m
GPS:	34.01323, -116.17615 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	9,878 total · 34/month
Shared By:	Mark J. Nelson on Jan 9, 2003
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Cockroach Rock itself is rotten. The climbing varies, but the rock is rotten. There's not a climb on the rock that you couldn't pull half the holds off of.

But much of it is fun anyway, particularly if you're not leading it. :)

Classic Corner (5.7) is actually not on Cockroach, but is immediately next to it. It's a fantastic hand crack, and well worth the hike up the talus.

Fortunately, all of the climbs on Cockroach can be toproped by hiking up the gully on either side to gain the top of the rock.

Getting There

Park at the road closure on the way to the Lost Horse Ranger Station, take the Access Fund trail (nicer than walking in the wash.)

After you pass the Aiguille de Joshua Tree, go around another ridge on your left and look to the skyline. The most obvious locator is Classic Corner, an obvious right facing dihedral with an equally obvious roof 2/3 of the way up. Cockroach Crag itself is the "squat, brown rock" to the right of the rock containing Classic Corner.