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Routes in Cockroach Crag

Classic Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climb Of The Cockroaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leatherhead Arete, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
R.S. Chicken Choker T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Roach Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Elevation: 4,222 ft
GPS: 34.013, -116.176 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,966 total, 16/month
Shared By: Mark J. Nelson on Jan 9, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Cockroach Rock itself is rotten. The climbing varies, but the rock is rotten. There's not a climb on the rock that you couldn't pull half the holds off of.

But much of it is fun anyway, particularly if you're not leading it. :)

Classic Corner (5.7) is actually not on Cockroach, but is immediately next to it. It's a fantastic hand crack, and well worth the hike up the talus.

Fortunately, all of the climbs on Cockroach can be toproped by hiking up the gully on either side to gain the top of the rock.

Getting There

Park at the road closure on the way to the Lost Horse Ranger Station, take the Access Fund trail (nicer than walking in the wash.)

After you pass the Aiguille de Joshua Tree, go around another ridge on your left and look to the skyline. The most obvious locator is Classic Corner, an obvious right facing dihedral with an equally obvious roof 2/3 of the way up. Cockroach Crag itself is the "squat, brown rock" to the right of the rock containing Classic Corner.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cockroach Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classic Corner
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Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Classic Corner 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
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