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Cockroach Crag Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Cockroach Crag

L › R R › L A › Z

	Classic Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Climb Of The Cockroaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Insector Gadget TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Leatherhead Arete, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	R.S. Chicken Choker T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Roach Coach TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Roach Motel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Roach Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Thumby Bloody Thumby T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	4,222 ft	1,287 m
GPS:	34.01323, -116.17615 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	9,714 total · 36/month
Shared By:	Mark J. Nelson on Jan 9, 2003
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Cockroach Rock itself is rotten. The climbing varies, but the rock is rotten. There's not a climb on the rock that you couldn't pull half the holds off of.

But much of it is fun anyway, particularly if you're not leading it. :)

Classic Corner (5.7) is actually not on Cockroach, but is immediately next to it. It's a fantastic hand crack, and well worth the hike up the talus.

Fortunately, all of the climbs on Cockroach can be toproped by hiking up the gully on either side to gain the top of the rock.

Getting There

Park at the road closure on the way to the Lost Horse Ranger Station, take the Access Fund trail (nicer than walking in the wash.)

After you pass the Aiguille de Joshua Tree, go around another ridge on your left and look to the skyline. The most obvious locator is Classic Corner, an obvious right facing dihedral with an equally obvious roof 2/3 of the way up. Cockroach Crag itself is the "squat, brown rock" to the right of the rock containing Classic Corner.