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Routes in Cockroach Crag

Classic Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climb Of The Cockroaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leatherhead Arete, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
R.S. Chicken Choker T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Roach Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,651 total, 9/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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39 Opinions

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Description

Left of Classic Corner (5.7) and across from the blocky Cockroach Crag is this left-facing corner system/ramp. Good jams on clean rock make this a worthy tick if in the area and a sunny location makes this a good route to do on those chilly afternoons, although there is little to no protection from the wind. Perhaps one star out of five.

Protection

pro to 3"

Photos

Solid 8 Feb 4, 2012
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
  5.8
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
  5.8
The move off the deck is a bit awkward, but overall getting to the roof was straight forward. I suppose 5.6 is a fine rating to the roof. Howerver, a Total Sandbag moving onto the face around the roof. I would definately give that move a 5.8. Plus its very awkward being jammed up into the roof trying to reach around for pro. Nonetheless, worth doing if in the area, as I was proud to work that crux with no falls. I too thought the roof moves were harder than anything on Classic Corner, which gets a higher quality rating in my mind. Jan 31, 2011
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.7
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.7
definitely pretty stiff for 5.6. maybe because it is a little awkward, but I definitely found this at least as hard as classic corner. worth doing if you're in the area. Mar 23, 2010
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
  5.8-
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
  5.8-
An interesting finish to say the least. A fine route to do when planning to do Classic Corner. I thought the first move off the deck was a little interesting - especially since Mr. Vogel said 5.6 on this one! Glad to see most posters are in agreement and have upgraded to a more appropriate grade. Mar 15, 2009
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
  5.8
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
  5.8
Agreed, Classic is a cruise comparatively. However, I definitely found this route MUCH more enjoyable. What a finish! Dec 28, 2008
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
I am tall, and I found False Classic Corner a lot harder than Classic Corner, which was a cruise. I am weak at thin hands and that may have had a lot to do with it.

We got down via the tight little chimney. No fatsos allowed! Apr 2, 2008
Kevin Craig
  5.8-
Kevin Craig  
  5.8-
Definitely NOT a 5.6 going around the roof. I think it was down-graded in the latest book which it should not be. I'd put it at at least hard 5.7 and maybe harder. I cruised Classic Corner (5.7) but really struggled with this one. Shorter climbers in our group found False CC easier. Maybe it's a height thing? Nov 16, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Thanks, Susan! Went up there today, no bolts. Dec 8, 2006
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Previous reports indicate bolts at the top. Bolts no more....gear anchor and quick and easy walk off to the south. Oct 9, 2006
Climbed it over the weekend thinking it was the classic corner.Definitely a 5.8 getting around and above the roof.There is a set of bolts and new rap webbing a little bit up and to the right of the route.One rope rap to ground (we had a 60m). Nov 29, 2004
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Squeaks by with 1 star due to its shortness (about 30'), but worth a quick tick if in the area. May 3, 2004
Randy
5.6
Randy  
5.6
Also known as False Classic Corner (route 1029), due to it often being mistaken for Classic Corner. Maybe 5.7, but easier than Classic Corner. Nov 5, 2003