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Routes in Cockroach Crag

Classic Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climb Of The Cockroaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leatherhead Arete, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
R.S. Chicken Choker T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Roach Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: (TR) Pat Nay, FL: Chris Miller, 1998
Page Views: 404 total · 2/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the obvious line just left of Classic Corner which offers steep and continuous balance moves up an arete which is capped by a small roof. Well-protected with fun moves and a nice view of the surrounding desert. Gear belay and an easy walk-off from the top.

Location

Just left of Classic Corner

Protection

4 bolts (3/8"), pro to 3" for anchors

Photos

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Murf  
Still chopped, good route, more like feels like .11b on TR to me. Jan 29, 2012
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
The bolts are so camo now that there is a bad epoxy job in the holes covering them up. This route is chopped and the chopper did not do a very good job on the coverup. Try harder crowbar guys. Oct 9, 2006
Murf  
Wow - I must be blind, I can't believe I couldn't find the bolts. So help a blind man out, does it start directly on the arete, or does it start on the face slightly left of the arete on the shallow crack? Nov 10, 2003
Randy
  5.11b
Randy  
  5.11b
The bolts are very well camoflauged and not noticable until you are right on top of them. Nov 10, 2003
Murf  
I was unable to find the bolts on this route.. Chopped? Nov 10, 2003
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
The Creature Comforts Wall is the backside of the wall with Classic Corner. It's a northwest-facing (towards the Lost Horse Road) wall with a number of cracks and face climbs. There may be a topo at Nomad. All FA's by George Armstrong et al., circa 1998 Nov 5, 2003
Murf  
Hey what's this Creature Comfort wall all about? 6 of this, 12 of that? Where's the beta? Nov 5, 2003
Randy
  5.11b
Randy  
  5.11b
Maybe I was having a bad day when we did this, but I thought it seemed more like solid 11b. Much harder than Snap, Crackle & Pop and If 6 Where 9 on the nearby Creature Comforts Wall. Nov 5, 2003
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Not to be confused with the more difficult and spectacular Skinhead Arete, this route was first toproped by Pat Nay et al. and called Jazzercise. Two or three out of five stars. Nov 5, 2003