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Routes in Cockroach Crag

Classic Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climb Of The Cockroaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leatherhead Arete, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
R.S. Chicken Choker T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Roach Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Scott Cosgrove, January 1988
Page Views: 2,768 total, 15/month
Shared By: Mark J. Nelson on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Not much ambiguity here. It's a clean, right angle, right facing dihedral, into a roof, which you pass with the handcrack on the right.

There is (or was, as of January 1, 2003) a loose block a few feet up in the crack. You can choose to either crank on it, thereby changing the lower section of the climb and possibly injuring your belayer, or carefully avoid it, thereby leaving the climb intact. I recommend the latter. :)

There's a downclimb to climber's left.

Protection

This corner pretty much soaks up gear; you can sink as much of a standard rack into it as you want, but won't need anything particularly large (up to a #2 Camalot is fine) or small (leave the micros behind.) Save a handful of pieces for the anchor on top.
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
stuck stem-less cam at about 15 ft up. lobes all movable, but hard to maneuver it up and out using nut tool as makeshift stem. more so trash clean-up than booty Jan 22, 2016
After 40+ years of climbing here, You'd of thought I'd got to this one before.

Great short route, but the exit move may be a bit of a challenge for the shorter set.

Beware!

There's about a 16" long section of the right edge of the crack that's about to part company. (Right above the welded in fixed poot)

It feels solid in compression but is completely loose, and liebacking at this point is about mandatory. Don't play with it or place gear here! Feb 4, 2012
I thought a Number BD C4 #4 was nice for the top, this climb loves C4 #1's Oct 1, 2011
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.7
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.7
awesome, but a bit short. would get three stars if it were twice as long, 4 stars if it were 4 times as long. Mar 23, 2010
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
  5.7
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
  5.7
A fun route... easy to protect and fun moves. The approach wasn't too bad. An interesting search for the walk-down, but once we found it, it was fine. Plenty of sunshine. Mar 15, 2009
Smanson
Twentynine Palms, CA
 
Smanson   Twentynine Palms, CA
 
This crack is great for hand jams!!! They are so solid and don't hurt at all! Mar 7, 2009
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Good route, too bad it's not 100' longer. Dec 8, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Better than The Case of the Missing Nolina, but pretty short nonetheless (about 30'). May 3, 2004
Randy  
The route shown in the photo is NOT Classic Corner. The corner to the right (right facing) IS Classic Corner.The route shown is appropriately named: False Classic Corner 5.6. Jan 20, 2004
Is anyone familiar with the unnamed (?) climb to the right of Classic Corner in the Atlantis area? It is also a dihedral climb with a good-looking crack & looks a bit steeper than Classic Corner. It is formed by the same large block that juts out to form the right side of CC.

Has it been named since Vogel's last book? Does anyone know its rating? -wingerhp Jan 20, 2004
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
This beta photo is not of Classic Crack but rather of another route to the left called False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) (5.6)*. This climb pictured is a left-facing corner/ramp while Classic Corner is right-facing and steeper. The Leatherhead Arete (5.11a)** climbs the obvious arete between the two routes. Nov 4, 2003