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Routes in Cockroach Crag

Classic Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climb Of The Cockroaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leatherhead Arete, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
R.S. Chicken Choker T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Roach Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, January 1988
Page Views: 384 total, 2/month
Shared By: Mark J. Nelson on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the obvious double crack system on the top half of the right side of the southwest face of Cockroach Crag.

The bottom section is relatively rotten, but protects adequately if you avoid the really loose stuff.

The double crack system is wonderful, straight-on, solid, well-protected hands. Like many climbs, it's main crime is being too short.

Protection

Small cams or (preferably, since the rock isn't all that solid) tricams for the horizontals, up through a #2 Camalot for the cracks.

Small cams/tricams up through #3 Camalot for an anchor on top, depending on where you choose to build it.

Walk off to the northeast and down the gully on either side of the rock.

Photos

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