All Locations >
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Lost Horse Area
> Lost Horse Wall
> Lost Horse Wall - Rig…
Bird on a Wire
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Type: | Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Dave Evans, Kevin Powell & Dan Ahlborn, 1977 |
Page Views: | 22,890 total · 92/month |
Shared By: | The Gray Tradster on May 20, 2003 · Updates |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Description
Appropriately named, You'll feel like a Bird On A Wire on this one. Maybe the best route on this wall.
Pitch-1 Climb or 3rd class up to the ledge about half way between, The Swift and Dappled Mare. Set up a belay anchor in the left facing corner a few feet right of a vertical crack.
Pitch-2 Climb the ever thinning crack system past a couple of bolts. Place a thin piece and tip-toe past it, Crux. The crack eases of and breaks right. Pick a convenient scoop to belay in. Note: Avoid setting up the belay where the route crosses Dappled Mare, (traffic jam). Some parties belay at the bolts just before the crux. This may not be a good idea. If the leader blows out the thin pro at the crux, they'll end up on top of you from high enough to do real damage to both.
Pitch-3 Continue right and up crossing Dappled Mare to the top.
With a long rope and a high tolerance for rope drag, pitches 2-3 could be combined, but why bother?
Pitch-1 Climb or 3rd class up to the ledge about half way between, The Swift and Dappled Mare. Set up a belay anchor in the left facing corner a few feet right of a vertical crack.
Pitch-2 Climb the ever thinning crack system past a couple of bolts. Place a thin piece and tip-toe past it, Crux. The crack eases of and breaks right. Pick a convenient scoop to belay in. Note: Avoid setting up the belay where the route crosses Dappled Mare, (traffic jam). Some parties belay at the bolts just before the crux. This may not be a good idea. If the leader blows out the thin pro at the crux, they'll end up on top of you from high enough to do real damage to both.
Pitch-3 Continue right and up crossing Dappled Mare to the top.
With a long rope and a high tolerance for rope drag, pitches 2-3 could be combined, but why bother?
39 Comments