Type: Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches
FA: Dave Evans, Kevin Powell & Dan Ahlborn, 1977
Page Views: 22,890 total · 92/month
Shared By: The Gray Tradster on May 20, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest

You & This Route


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Description

Appropriately named, You'll feel like a Bird On A Wire on this one. Maybe the best route on this wall.

Pitch-1 Climb or 3rd class up to the ledge about half way between, The Swift and Dappled Mare. Set up a belay anchor in the left facing corner a few feet right of a vertical crack.

Pitch-2 Climb the ever thinning crack system past a couple of bolts. Place a thin piece and tip-toe past it, Crux. The crack eases of and breaks right. Pick a convenient scoop to belay in. Note: Avoid setting up the belay where the route crosses Dappled Mare, (traffic jam). Some parties belay at the bolts just before the crux. This may not be a good idea. If the leader blows out the thin pro at the crux, they'll end up on top of you from high enough to do real damage to both.

Pitch-3 Continue right and up crossing Dappled Mare to the top.

With a long rope and a high tolerance for rope drag, pitches 2-3 could be combined, but why bother?

Protection

Small TCU's or nuts at crux, Trad rack to #3 Camalot

Photos