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> Joshua Tree NP
> Lost Horse Area
> Lost Horse Wall
> Lost Horse Wall - Rig…
Bird on a Wire
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.3 from 494
votes
Routes in Lost Horse Wall - Right Side
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Altitude Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Armor Plated Unicorn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bird on a Wire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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China Plates T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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City Slickers T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Conspiracy of Ravens T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Dappled Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gossamer Wings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hairline Fracture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Lost and Found T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mare's Tail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Roan Way T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Swift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wilson Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.02166, -116.1788 |
| FA: | Dave Evans, Kevin Powell & Dan Ahlborn, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 24,824 total · 89/month |
| Shared By: | The Gray Tradster on May 20, 2003 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
A very good route.
Pitch 1: This pitch is a bit nebulous - there are a few ways you can go. Climb or 3rd class up to the ledge about halfway between The Swift and Dappled Mare. Set up an anchor in a left-facing corner a few feet right of a vertical crack (40 feet).
Pitch 2: Climb the thinning crack system past one bolt. Place a thin piece and tip-toe past it: crux. The crack eases and breaks right. Pick a convenient scoop to belay in. Avoid setting up the belay where the route crosses Dappled Mare so you don't cause a traffic jam.
Pitch 3: Continue up and right to the top.
With a long rope and many slings, pitches 2-3 could be combined,
Photos
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