All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Natio… > Lost Horse Area > Lost Horse Wall > Lost Horse Wall - Right Side
Bird on a Wire
Avg: 3.3 from 248 votes
Routes in Lost Horse Wall - Right Side
|Altitude Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Bird on a Wire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|City Slickers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Dappled Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Hairline Fracture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Lost and Found T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Mare's Tail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Roan Way T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Swift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Wilson Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R|
|Type:||Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Dave Evans, Kevin Powell & Dan Ahlborn, 1977|
|Page Views:||14,366 total, 81/month|
|Shared By:||The Gray Tradster on May 20, 2003|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionAppropriately named, You'll feel like a Bird On A Wire on this one. Maybe the best route on this wall.
Pitch-1 Climb or 3rd class up to the ledge about half way between, The Swift and Dappled Mare. Set up a belay anchor in the left facing corner a few feet right of a vertical crack.
Pitch-2 Climb the ever thinning crack system past a couple of bolts. Place a thin piece and tip-toe past it, Crux. The crack eases of and breaks right. Pick a convenient scoop to belay in. Note: Avoid setting up the belay where the route crosses Dappled Mare, (traffic jam). Some parties belay at the bolts just before the crux. This may not be a good idea. If the leader blows out the thin pro at the crux, they'll end up on top of you from high enough to do real damage to both.
Pitch-3 Continue right and up crossing Dappled Mare to the top.
With a long rope and a high tolerance for rope drag, pitches 2-3 could be combined, but why bother?