Bird on a Wire
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Type: | Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Dave Evans, Kevin Powell & Dan Ahlborn, 1977 |
Page Views: | 24,300 total · 91/month |
Shared By: | The Gray Tradster on May 20, 2003 · Updates |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
A very good route.
Pitch 1: This pitch is a bit nebulous - there are a few ways you can go. Climb or 3rd class up to the ledge about halfway between The Swift and Dappled Mare. Set up an anchor in a left-facing corner a few feet right of a vertical crack (40 feet).
Pitch 2: Climb the thinning crack system past one bolt. Place a thin piece and tip-toe past it: crux. The crack eases and breaks right. Pick a convenient scoop to belay in. Avoid setting up the belay where the route crosses Dappled Mare so you don't cause a traffic jam.
Pitch 3: Continue up and right to the top.
With a long rope and many slings, pitches 2-3 could be combined,
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