Continue with Facebook
All Locations >
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Lost Horse Area
> Lost Horse Wall
> Lost Horse Wall - Rig…
Bird on a Wire
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.3 from 430
votes
Routes in Lost Horse Wall - Right Side
|
|
Altitude Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Armor Plated Unicorn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Bird on a Wire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
China Plates T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
City Slickers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Conspiracy of Ravens T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Dappled Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Gossamer Wings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Hairline Fracture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
|
|
Lost and Found T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Mare's Tail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Roan Way T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Swift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Wilson Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Evans, Kevin Powell & Dan Ahlborn, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 22,890 total · 92/month |
| Shared By: | The Gray Tradster on May 20, 2003 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·Your Star Rating:
Description
Appropriately named, You'll feel like a Bird On A Wire on this one. Maybe the best route on this wall.
Pitch-1 Climb or 3rd class up to the ledge about half way between, The Swift and Dappled Mare. Set up a belay anchor in the left facing corner a few feet right of a vertical crack.
Pitch-2 Climb the ever thinning crack system past a couple of bolts. Place a thin piece and tip-toe past it, Crux. The crack eases of and breaks right. Pick a convenient scoop to belay in. Note: Avoid setting up the belay where the route crosses Dappled Mare, (traffic jam). Some parties belay at the bolts just before the crux. This may not be a good idea. If the leader blows out the thin pro at the crux, they'll end up on top of you from high enough to do real damage to both.
Pitch-3 Continue right and up crossing Dappled Mare to the top.
With a long rope and a high tolerance for rope drag, pitches 2-3 could be combined, but why bother?
Pitch-1 Climb or 3rd class up to the ledge about half way between, The Swift and Dappled Mare. Set up a belay anchor in the left facing corner a few feet right of a vertical crack.
Pitch-2 Climb the ever thinning crack system past a couple of bolts. Place a thin piece and tip-toe past it, Crux. The crack eases of and breaks right. Pick a convenient scoop to belay in. Note: Avoid setting up the belay where the route crosses Dappled Mare, (traffic jam). Some parties belay at the bolts just before the crux. This may not be a good idea. If the leader blows out the thin pro at the crux, they'll end up on top of you from high enough to do real damage to both.
Pitch-3 Continue right and up crossing Dappled Mare to the top.
With a long rope and a high tolerance for rope drag, pitches 2-3 could be combined, but why bother?
Photos
39 Comments