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> Joshua Tree NP
> Lost Horse Area
> Lost Horse Rdsi…
> Hemingway Buttress
> Hemingway Buttress -…
Prepackaged
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.3 from 391
votes
Routes in Hemingway Buttress - E Face L
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Ant Farm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Coyote Bait T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dung Fu T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Feltonian Physics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Funky Dung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gift Wrapped TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Golden Years T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Hernie, Hernie, Hernie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Horn Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Man's Best Friend T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Merry-Go-Round Broke Down T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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More Funky Than Junky T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Old Man and the Arete, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Overseer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Overseer Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pig in Heat T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Poodles are People Too T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Poodlesby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Prepackaged T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roadrunner, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Rock Wren T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sea Monkeys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Smoke-a-Bowl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Such a Poodle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sun Also Rises, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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White Lightning T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02386, -116.17782 |
| FA: | John McGowen, Rich Smith & Herb Laegar, February 1977 |
| Page Views: | 13,873 total · 50/month |
| Shared By: | Bo Johnston on Nov 12, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This excellent route climbs the rightward diagonaling hand crack just to the right of Feltoneon Physics. Bring your guns for this sustained pitch of quality stone and great gear placements. Although the crux may be in the lower portion of the route, the ensuing pump will make the finish a challenge as well.
Descend via the communal rap anchors abeam White Lightning (one 70m or two 60m).
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