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Routes in Kaleidoscope Wall

Acrobat's Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Reckoning T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lemon Lime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Magnetic North T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mrs. Magoo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reach Around, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skeleton in My Closet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Technicolor Yawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Treasure Island T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

When viewed from Trash Can rock, this crag sits high on the hillside to the left of the White Cliffs of Dover. It is composed of rock similar to that of the White Cliffs ("whiter" and generally more polished than the rest of the park). It is very difficult to spot from the Lost Horse area, and the best angle to see it is from the road between Trash Can and Lost Horse. It is about 300 feet up the hillside and faces North-East.

The new Vogel guide (Joshua Tree West) has a topo of this crag but no photos. We were lured to it because of its shady location and numerous starred routes. The routes are OK, and a nice change of pace, but probably not worth a second visit.

Fixed rappel anchors are available on the left side of the crag (behind the big tree).

Getting There

Park at the end of the Lost Horse road (the last parking lot on the right before the section open to park service employees only). Hike North along the East edge of Super Creeps wall and then angle left across the desert until you hit an old road. Walk along this road for about 10 minutes and then head cross county to the base of the hillside. Hike up the hillside for about 10 minutes. The crag can easily be identified as a gray, slabby wall about 300 feet up.

9 Total Climbs

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caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Looking at the guide, there are 9 routes, all of which get stars. There's more like 6 or 7 actual routes with a couple fun and short variations.

Also, I think the vogel approach description makes it a little tough to find the crag, we cut up too soon and had to thwack around for a bit. If you approach from any other direction you can actually see the crag. If I theoretically were to return, I'd approach from Trashcan parking and just go past the White Cliffs, or even just at a pullout directly across from the crag and walk straight across the desert.

Nice afternoon shade. Oct 29, 2011
Murf  
On approach, remember the crag is fairly high on the hillside. We went a bit farther than we thought we would need to.

The crag looks to have a fair number of routes, but many are variations. Due to this, there is less independent climbing than appears at first glance.

Might be a good wall to take a bigger group with a few ropes for the day. It's out of the way and you'll likely bother and be bothered by no one else. All in all a pleasant day of climbing, no mega classics, but plenty of fun to be had. Apr 16, 2007

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