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Areas in Rock Garden Valley

Rock Garden Valley - Left Side 19 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Rock Garden Valley - Right Side 16 / 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19

Description

This is a great destination with a wealth of moderates stretched out along a featured wall in a scenic location. Choose from excellent knobby cracks, some face climbs as well as some fun crack/face routes. This is an excellent wall to spend a few hours or all day. East facing - so morning sun and afternoon shade.

Getting There

From Quail Springs Rd turn right at the Lost Horse Rd. (graded dirt) which is 7.5 miles from the Entrance Station and 2.0 miles from Trash Can Rock. Proceed 0.3 miles to a turnout on the left. Note- this is a very popular area with very limited parking, so you may need to park elsewhere and walk a bit further. There is a trail which starts from the parking area, but quickly you are scrambling on rocks which makes it hard to find the best path. Lastly this wall is the back side of the Lost Horse Wall and across from the Freeway and Tiny Tots Rock.

41 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Rock Garden Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yi
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Dogleg
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock-a-Lot
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beck's Bet
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smithereens
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Euthyphro
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Young Lust
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Split Personality
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spitwad
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Candy
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pop Rocks
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Single Cat Leg (aka Why Does it Hurt…
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Top of the Pops
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Turning Tricks
Trad
Yi Rock Garden Valley - Left Side 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Double Dogleg Rock Garden Valley - Left Side 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Rock-a-Lot Rock Garden Valley - Left Side 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Beck's Bet Rock Garden Valley - Left Side 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Smithereens Rock Garden Valley - Left Side 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Euthyphro Rock Garden Valley - Left Side 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Young Lust Rock Garden Valley - Left Side 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Split Personality Rock Garden Valley - Left Side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Spitwad Rock Garden Valley - Left Side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Rock Candy Rock Garden Valley - Left Side 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Pop Rocks Rock Garden Valley - Left Side 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Single Cat Leg (aka Why Doe… Rock Garden Valley - Right Side 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct Rock Garden Valley - Left Side 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad
Top of the Pops Rock Garden Valley - Left Side 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Turning Tricks Rock Garden Valley - Right Side 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
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Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
^^^^^^^^
Like many walls in J-Tree it seems they are either always in the shade or always in the sun. Amazing how some crags are basically due north but get full sun in the summer.

Much like this area the shade/sun is totally dependent on time of year. In late spring/summer you have sun both mornings and afternoons. People get tricked thinking it will have shade in the afternoon but the sun sets so far to the north it just beams into the corridor in the afternoon. Just as fall starts (mid-October) does the wall stay in the shade after 10 or 11am but beware with every day closer to November you lose more and more am light and eventually get none. Oct 7, 2012
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
The guidebook says "lots of shade". From the pictures, you can tell this is NOT the case. The wall gets shade in the afternoon. May 21, 2012

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