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Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Center)

976 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death in the Afternoon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Importance of Being Ernest, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Moveable Feast T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
On the Nob T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poodle Jive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poodle in Shining Armor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poodle-oids from The Deep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scary Poodles T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spoodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Darryl Nakahira & Randy Vogel, November 1982
Page Views: 3,140 total · 20/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The premiere route on the wall, this stellar line is classic Josh climbing with mostly face climbing protected by gear.

The moves aren't that difficult, but the trick is hanging out long enough to wiggle the gear in. A pin protects the lower crux, although there is another tricky section just below the top, especially if pumped.

Mostly face climbing with gear, this is like an advanced version of Poodles Are People Too, which lies further to the left on the same wall. After this climb you'll be ready to try Cool But Concerned (5.11c/d) or Baby Huey (5.11d). Four stars out of five.

Location

Found in the center of the formation, this lies just right of a chimney and is identified by left- slanting thin cracks in brown rock.

Protection

fixed pin and gear to 2.5", especially many thin to 1"

Photos

Nick Sullens
Yosemite/ Bishop
  5.11b
Nick Sullens   Yosemite/ Bishop
  5.11b
Super pumpy! 3 blue tcu size pieces would be nice, I pumped out trying to place a green c3 after the pin where a blue tcu would have fit much better Feb 10, 2012
Soloed by Michael Reardon Jul 5, 2008
Manjushri  
 
Very enjoyable climbing on this one. Descriptions seem to be spot on: a nice steep pumper requiring hang time to place decent gear. Oct 29, 2007
Good climbing, but the crux is really protecting the 8 to 10 feet after the pin, the crux, where I found the placements to be C2 -- hard to get and not very trustworthy. Furthermore, I wouldn't want to bet the farm on the pin which flexes with a good downward pull. Apr 21, 2004