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Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side

Beck's Bet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Candyman TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dogleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euthyphro T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Holly Device T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Personal Space TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Rocks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Candy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rock-a-Lot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Silent But Deadly T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Smithereens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spitwad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top of the Pops T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Young Lust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Kevin Powell, Dan Ahlborn and Tim Powell, April 1976
Page Views: 8,150 total, 43/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 5, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This enjoyable route, with it's secure jams, good protection and fun moves make this is recommended route to do when in the area. This was also the first route climbed on the wall and it's name a take-off on the popular Dogleg in Hidden Valley CG. Three stars out of five.

Location

This is the distinctive zig-zag crack system near the right end of the wall that is just left of Split Personality.

Protection

Gear to 3".Anchors on top (3/8"). Depending on how much pro is placed you may want to take some slings to cut down on rope drag.
Brian morin
Simi Valley, CA
 
Brian morin   Simi Valley, CA
 
Beta spray on pro: 1st lead placed .75, #1, #3, .5, #2. 2nd lead placed .75, .75, #1, #3, #1, #1

Set up gear anchor at the top to bring up 2nd with two #3s and a .75 or #2

Cruiser with great stances for gear the whole way. Perfect from someone breaking into the grade as it's one of the easier 5.7s in jtree. Vertical climbing with lots of great features



youtube.com/watch?v=IsydriZ… May 8, 2017
Crackson
  5.7
Crackson  
  5.7
Soft for the grade, but amazing and totally worth it Apr 2, 2017
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
 
Super fun route! Oct 26, 2014
David S.
San Francisco, CA
  5.7
David S.   San Francisco, CA
  5.7
Have to say, having done White Lightning after this on the same day, this is a much easier 5.7 than I would expect for JTree. Good solid lead, but I barely had to jam. Only required jams were at the very top.

Still, the left leaning line makes it interesting. Like an easier version of The Flue. I used gear up to a #3 Camalot, mostly above the .5 size. May 25, 2014
Climb To Safety
california
 
Climb To Safety   california
 
Chilly day, the rock was cold, and the summit was extremely windy. Still the view and the climb made up for the cold weather. I haven't done many, but this is one of my favorite 5.7 climbs at Joshua tree. Top notch. Feb 15, 2013
Canon
 
Canon  
 
Fair for the grade. Nothing special. Lots of features around the crack that make jams pretty unnecessary. On top are two anchors, 2 bolts and hangars up and left from the top out, and 2 bolts/hangars/rap rings down and right from the top out. Either is about equidistant from the line (10ft), but both would benefit from an extendo if TRing it.

Also, you can scramble to the top of the climb by working south up the "valley" from the base of the climb, and around to the right. Feb 1, 2012
Wesley Stupar
Glendora
  5.7
Wesley Stupar   Glendora
  5.7
Fun safe climb. Lots of solid medium-sized pro opportunities.

As you step up on top, there are two 3/8" bolts to your left (belay anchor) and two rap ring bolts down to your right. Apr 23, 2011
UpRope
 
UpRope  
 
This route protects well, jams well, and the hand jams and footwork are in coordinated sync.A Joshua Tree 'must do' Nov 9, 2010
Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
Climbed this for the first time yesterday and found it took gear well, primarily cams. The first section of the left-trending part of the crack was definitely the crux for me. Just to add to the discussion of relative difficulty, I found this route more difficult than Double Cross, but then I like to jam, and this route involves extensive use of the face.

What I really like about this route is (unlike many 5.7s in the park, and elsewhere) you really have to be planning ahead for your feet. If you don't, you're going to be in trouble. Usually on 5.7 routes you have a lot of options. I think if you just tried to power up this route and flail around with your feet you'd be in trouble...so in that sense it's unique.

Also I think it has one of the finest summit views in the park.

Save this one for near sunset on a hot spring day. Apr 26, 2010
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
 
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
 
Could not disagree more that this is the "easiest 5.7 in the park". IMO, there are a number of 5.7's that are significantly less difficult than this route.
It's a fun 5.7 route that protects well. Fun moves throughout. While it wouldn't be a route that I would suggest for a newbie, I'd recommend for a competent 5.7+ (JTree) climber. Enjoy! Nov 7, 2009
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.7
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.7
Like the others say, It's a great 5.7, and solid for the grade. Not my personal favorite, but it makes you think since its diagonal. Also try the Split Personality variant! May 22, 2009
Jonathan Bent
San Diego, CA
 
Jonathan Bent   San Diego, CA
 
Great crack, excellent movement, and easy for a classic 7 (not the easiest in the park, though). However, I'll say that for folks new to crack, and used to vertical gym climbing, negotiating the diagonal section can be a non-intuitive combination of hand-jamming, and finding (good) feet below the crack. For my second it was more intuitive to put feet in the crack and stand up, leaving her with little to hold on to for hands above. Much easier, of course, to keep hands in the crack as much as possible and seek the good-to-bomber feet beneath and to the left. A really enjoyable climb for me, as it provided such good jams/holds and interesting 2-dimensional movement (read: not just up-down). A great way to end the day... Oct 27, 2008
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
  5.7
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
  5.7
this route is pure fun! it's pretty easy for a 5.7, gobbles up all kinds of pro, great jamming, excellent rock quality, and abundant face holds make for very comfortable stances. Apr 12, 2006
Joseph Lee  
 
I'm into having fun and this climb is all that. Great feet. Not that hard for 5.7 so a good climb to lead. Oct 14, 2005
Jason Shatek  
 
K, this is about the easiest 5.7 in the park. Easily protectable but few hand jams until you get to the top. There are many good stances where the crack jogs to the left. Apr 7, 2005
Richard Beller  
  5.7
This is a superb crack climb -- as good as any 5.7 in the park. Mar 23, 2005
Kevin Currigan
Lakewood
Kevin Currigan   Lakewood
We climbed this last week and on second my hands were frozen by the time I reached the top. Great little route but was it ever cold. I believe this route faces north so be advised if you're climbing in February. Feb 11, 2004
this is a really nice route. one of my favorites. Apr 29, 2003