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Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side

Beck's Bet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Candyman TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dogleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euthyphro T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Holly Device T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Personal Space TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Rocks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Candy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rock-a-Lot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Silent But Deadly T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Smithereens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spitwad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top of the Pops T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Young Lust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 893 total · 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


57 Opinions

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Description

The face between Young Lust and Smithereens is where you'll find this challenging route.

Easy moves at the start lead to a thin seam that splits the center of the face (crux). The climbing isn't especially difficult but hanging on long enough to wiggle in the gear is. Once past the crux load up some gear in a horizontal crack at mid-height and enjoy the steep edges with minimal pro that lead to the topout. The difficulty of the climb varies with how direct you stay, as wandering to either side can knock the grade down somewhat.

A serious lead that rarely gets done as most people visiting the area come for the moderate cracks of the area. Easily rigged as a toprope after leading either of the neighboring routes and much safer this way as well. One star out of five.

Protection

Gear to 2" (especially small wires), bolted anchor/rap

Photos

Obi
Portland, OR
  5.10c R
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.10c R
Done on TR, the moves are actually quite fun on thin holds and balancy footwork. Fairly consistent movement all the way to the top, there's a slight pump felt by the end of the route. Oct 22, 2006
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10c R
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.10c R
We did this route on toprope this weekend, I'm gonna reinforce the comment that the rating and difficulty is completely dependent upon how direct you climb up the center. It's easy to use some of the holds on the left side of Smithereens or the right side of Young Lust. If you don't use any of these, the climb may feel more like 5.11! May 26, 2009
A fun TR, but leading this thing would be scary with no pro except one micro-nut above the horizontal. The bottom half (below the horizontal) is more protectable and not really contrived with the best holds in and near the seam. One section about 5-10' below the horizontal has a cruxy section in the 5.10b range.

Past the horizontal, the route becomes a bit more contrived. Sticking strictly to the seam and nearby crimpy holds in the dark varnish yields a sustained, technical sequence to the top that is probably closer to the 5.10d/11a range. The other option is to move 5' right to the edge of the dark varnish where big right-facing flakes produce a weakness trending up and slightly left on better holds to the top. This variation seems easier - perhaps in the 5.10a range.

So maybe the 10c rating comes from splitting the difference between the variations. I'm going with a 10b lower crux, then an 11a direct finish and 10a right finish. Apr 11, 2010
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10c X
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10c X
Contrived and fatally squeezed. Who leads this thing? If the rap route didn't hang directly on top of it it would never get done. Oct 6, 2012
Bradley Gorsline
Pasadena, California
  5.10a R
Bradley Gorsline   Pasadena, California
  5.10a R
Did this on TR and it felt a lot more like 10a definitely not any harder than other 10s I've done in the park. Apr 16, 2016
Benj84
  5.10c/d X
Benj84  
  5.10c/d X
If you stick with going straight up the middle this is a really thin fun little face climb.
I had a serious look for pro while top-roping and my personal conclusion is that if you are to climb it any way other than top rope than free solo is probably the safest way to go, the little widgets you might be able to wiggle in here would be more trouble than they are worth.
Great TR if you've already got the rope in! Apr 10, 2017

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