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Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side

Beck's Bet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Candyman TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dogleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euthyphro T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Holly Device T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Personal Space TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Rocks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Candy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rock-a-Lot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Silent But Deadly T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Smithereens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spitwad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top of the Pops T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Young Lust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ed Kaufer and Scott Hoyle, 1979
Page Views: 3,496 total, 22/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route and it's neighbor (Young Lust) lie on the shorter face left of Rock Candy and climb heavily featured thin cracks with lots of varnish.

Boulder up (small wire helpful) into a thin crack (crux), pass a horizontal around mid-height and then move past a large flake/ear and many features to finish in a right-slanting thin crack. The anchor is set back from the edge on a comfortable ledge so if planning to toprope you'll need to extend it.

Roughly the same difficulty as Young Lust, but the varied climbing and more interesting moves make this the better of the two routes. Two stars out of five.

Protection

Gear to to 2", bolted anchor/rap (3/8")
steverett
San Diego, CA
  5.7
steverett   San Diego, CA
  5.7
Plenty of jugs, very mellow climb. None of the moves felt harder than 5.7 to me Nov 7, 2016
Canon
 
Canon  
 
Great pro! Nuts for days! Very similar to Young Lust, and just as fun (if not more fun!) Nov 17, 2012
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8+
Every route on this wall is worth doing. If you walk up here - do them all as well as the several to the right. Mar 21, 2012
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
  5.8
This climb is great fun - it is much better than it looks. The crack eats gear, and the horns are mostly huge jugs. May 4, 2006
Andy
5.9-
Andy  
5.9-
Enjoyable. Easy to protect, but watch for things that might break off. The '92 Vogel guide lists it as a 5.9 Oct 30, 2005