Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ed Kaufer and Scott Hoyle, 1979
Page Views: 3,854 total · 23/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


150 Opinions

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Description

This route and it's neighbor (Young Lust) lie on the shorter face left of Rock Candy and climb heavily featured thin cracks with lots of varnish.

Boulder up (small wire helpful) into a thin crack (crux), pass a horizontal around mid-height and then move past a large flake/ear and many features to finish in a right-slanting thin crack. The anchor is set back from the edge on a comfortable ledge so if planning to toprope you'll need to extend it.

Roughly the same difficulty as Young Lust, but the varied climbing and more interesting moves make this the better of the two routes. Two stars out of five.

Protection

Gear to to 2", bolted anchor/rap (3/8")

Photos

Andy
5.9-
Andy  
5.9-
Enjoyable. Easy to protect, but watch for things that might break off. The '92 Vogel guide lists it as a 5.9 Oct 30, 2005
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
  5.8
This climb is great fun - it is much better than it looks. The crack eats gear, and the horns are mostly huge jugs. May 4, 2006
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8+
Every route on this wall is worth doing. If you walk up here - do them all as well as the several to the right. Mar 21, 2012
Canon
 
Canon  
 
Great pro! Nuts for days! Very similar to Young Lust, and just as fun (if not more fun!) Nov 17, 2012
steverett
San Diego, CA
  5.7
steverett   San Diego, CA
  5.7
Plenty of jugs, very mellow climb. None of the moves felt harder than 5.7 to me Nov 7, 2016