Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ed Kaufer and Scott Hoyle, 1979
Page Views: 4,088 total · 24/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route and it's neighbor (Smithereens) lie on the shorter face left of Rock Candy and climb heavily featured thin cracks with lots of varnish.

Face climbing with the occasional jam is the name of the game here with the crux a thin move above a horizontal crack around mid-height. Higher, as you near the top the protection is somewhat scarce, but the generous nature of the holds makes this of little concern. The anchor is set back from the edge on a comfortable ledge so if planning to toprope you'll need to extend it.

A good climb but not on par with neighboring routes like Split Personality or Rock Candy. Two stars out of five.


pro to 1.5" (wires work especially well), bolted anchor/rap (3/8")


Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
This climb is straightforward to protect. It has very fun jamming. The Vogel guide rates is 5.9; I agree based on the slightly steep crux section. May 4, 2006
Guide rates it 5.8 and that seems about right. May 4, 2006
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Wasn't aware of any scarce protection on this route, and trust me, being the chicken I am, I'd know. Jun 15, 2009
Palm Desert, CA
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
Great fun! Some say 5.8, some say 5.9. I say GOOD TIMES! Crux may put it into the 5.9 range. Beta: don't get suckered into pluggin' gear high and sacrifice great finger locks. Bring a #3 - there's a sweet spot. Apr 4, 2010
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
I think this is my favorite 5.9 route in the entire park. I have probably climbed in 10 or more times and I live 12 hours drive away. Every route on this wall is fantastic but this is the best. Mar 21, 2012
5.8. Great pro, great fun! Nov 17, 2012