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Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side

Beck's Bet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Candyman TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dogleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euthyphro T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Holly Device T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Personal Space TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Rocks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Candy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rock-a-Lot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Silent But Deadly T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Smithereens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spitwad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top of the Pops T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Young Lust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ed Kaufer and Scott Hoyle, 1979
Page Views: 3,915 total · 24/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Edit]

This route and it's neighbor (Smithereens) lie on the shorter face left of Rock Candy and climb heavily featured thin cracks with lots of varnish.

Face climbing with the occasional jam is the name of the game here with the crux a thin move above a horizontal crack around mid-height. Higher, as you near the top the protection is somewhat scarce, but the generous nature of the holds makes this of little concern. The anchor is set back from the edge on a comfortable ledge so if planning to toprope you'll need to extend it.

A good climb but not on par with neighboring routes like Split Personality or Rock Candy. Two stars out of five.

Protection [Edit]

pro to 1.5" (wires work especially well), bolted anchor/rap (3/8")

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Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
  5.9
This climb is straightforward to protect. It has very fun jamming. The Vogel guide rates is 5.9; I agree based on the slightly steep crux section. May 4, 2006
Randy
  5.8
Randy  
  5.8
Guide rates it 5.8 and that seems about right. May 4, 2006
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Wasn't aware of any scarce protection on this route, and trust me, being the chicken I am, I'd know. Jun 15, 2009
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
  5.9-
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
  5.9-
Great fun! Some say 5.8, some say 5.9. I say GOOD TIMES! Crux may put it into the 5.9 range. Beta: don't get suckered into pluggin' gear high and sacrifice great finger locks. Bring a #3 - there's a sweet spot. Apr 4, 2010
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8+
I think this is my favorite 5.9 route in the entire park. I have probably climbed in 10 or more times and I live 12 hours drive away. Every route on this wall is fantastic but this is the best. Mar 21, 2012
Canon
 
Canon  
 
5.8. Great pro, great fun! Nov 17, 2012

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