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Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side

Beck's Bet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Candyman TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dogleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euthyphro T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Holly Device T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Personal Space TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Rocks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Candy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rock-a-Lot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Silent But Deadly T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Smithereens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spitwad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top of the Pops T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Young Lust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Keith Cunning et al, 1979
Page Views: 1,856 total, 11/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Apr 19, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start as you would for Spitwad but continue straight up. The protection is good all the way, and there are some interesting moves. I think 5.9 is a little mild for the crux. All in all, a fine route that I'd do again.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

John Ely
DC
  5.8
John Ely   DC
  5.8
'Socrates: Whereas what is pleasing to the gods is pleasing to them just because they love it, such being its nature and its cause. Its being loved of the gods is not the reason of its being loved.

Euthyphro: You are right.

Socrates: But suppose, dear Euthyphro, that what is pleasing to the gods and what is holy were not two separate things. In that case if holiness were loved because it was holy, then also what was pleasing to the gods would be loved because it pleased them. And, on the other hand, if what was pleasing to them pleased because they loved it, then also the holy would be holy because they loved it. But now you see that it is just the opposite, because the two are absolutely different fro each other. ...Consequently, Euthyphro, it looks as if you had not given me my answer - as if when you were asked to tell me the nature of the holy you did not wish to explain the essence of it...' Dec 2, 2012
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9
Every route on this wall is fantastic. Do them all. Hidden gems. Mar 21, 2012
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
  5.9
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
  5.9
Great route... not sure that I liked it as much as Young Lust, but definitely enjoyed it more than Smithereens. A must do! Apr 4, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
I can vouch for Spitwad; it too is excellent. Jun 15, 2009
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.8
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.8
I'll one up Guy and say that I felt this route was actually better than Young Lust and Smithereens. Even the wide section in the middle is somewhat interesting. Definitely do this route if you're in the area. Unfortunately I didn't find time to do Spitwad next door, but it looks amazing too! May 26, 2009
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
I thought this crack was just as fun and the highly starred routes to the right. It is an easy 5.9 with good gear. Mar 24, 2007
C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
Were this crack 80' longer it would be a total classic...that's okay as it's still pretty good. The featured varnish almost makes this route seem like a face route with gear at times. May 20, 2004