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Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side

Beck's Bet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Candyman TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dogleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euthyphro T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Holly Device T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Personal Space TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Rocks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Candy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rock-a-Lot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Silent But Deadly T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Smithereens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spitwad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top of the Pops T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Young Lust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Richard Adler and Dan Zacks
Page Views: 1,222 total, 7/month
Shared By: Richard Adler on Mar 29, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route starts about 100 feet across from and diagonal to "Young Lust." Start 10 feet left of a large chasm with a nolina at the chasm's base. An easy 10 foot boulder problem start to a nice right facing corner. Lieback and jam up the 15 foot corner to a sweet sustained finger and hand crack that eats gear and ends in a pod. A couple of interesting moves out of the pod that leads to easier climbing

Protection

1" to 3" gear for the climbing. A solid crack for the anchor at the top.

Photos

DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
  5.9-
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
  5.9-
This route was kinda hard! It may have been the end of the day or the awful walk down at the end of this route, but I had this up there in difficulty with some of the .8+ to .9s in the area. A pretty good route, but don't go thinking that this will be the easy one to knock out real quick. Apr 4, 2010
Not so sure you did this one first. May 25, 2004