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Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side

Beck's Bet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Candyman TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dogleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euthyphro T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Holly Device T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Personal Space TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Rocks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Candy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rock-a-Lot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Silent But Deadly T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Smithereens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spitwad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top of the Pops T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Young Lust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Swain, Debbie Brenchly and Kip Knapp, August 1991
Page Views: 701 total · 7/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Jun 13, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Up thin face then tricky to the right and equally tricky up to what from below looks like a good pocket....grab this and wonder why you ever came.

The foreboding crack though the bulge isn't quite so much.

Location

Face right of Pop Rocks - behind a Yucca.

Protection

Six bolts and some medium cams.

Photos

Jack Ziegler
Golden, CO
Jack Ziegler   Golden, CO
maybe i wasn't tall enough to start from the block, I traversed in from the right on some thin crimps Jan 26, 2012
Adam Kimmerly
  5.10d
Adam Kimmerly  
  5.10d
Tricky and sustained moves, and a really fun route. The difficulties end soon after the last bolt, and the moves through the bulge with the crack at the top are relatively easy.

Start off a talus block with an immediately tenuous step up onto a good right foot, clip the bolt, and dive into the first crux - a traverse straight left to the stance for the second bolt. Straightforward moves up to the third bolt set you up for the funky moves past the third bolt. Hand and foot holds are dismal, far apart, and seem to be in all the wrong places. At the fourth bolt, you head back to the right for the third crux of the route. Clip the fifth bolt, move up and right to the big flake, and mantel up onto the first seriously good rest stance of the route. Catch your breath, clip the sixth bolt and dive into the final crimpy section of the route. At the bulge, plug in a solid .75 camalot, pull the roof with good footholds, and run it on out on jugs to the top. Apr 11, 2010