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Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side

Beck's Bet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Candyman TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dogleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euthyphro T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Holly Device T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Personal Space TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Rocks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Candy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rock-a-Lot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Silent But Deadly T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Smithereens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spitwad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top of the Pops T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Young Lust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Tom Michael, Mark Walters & Jeff Jarvi, 1987
Page Views: 203 total, 6/month
Shared By: john durr on Jan 27, 2015
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Holly Device is a super fun mixed face route with really pleasant holds up a steep featured buttress, plus a typical Josh grain finish above the last bolt!

Location

This is the furthest left of three mixed face routes about 100' left of Spitwad. Begins up a steep, but moderate left curving crack.

To descend, walk off to the east or scramble west 4th class to the bolted rap anchor above Young Lust.

Protection

Four brand-new ASCA bolts, a couple finger to hand size cams for the easy crack leading up to the first bolt. Many options for the belay but most will find small TCU's to 1" work well.

Photos

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toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
On the first ascent;..there were only three bolts;......i was so scared at the top that I couldn't stop to place a bolt. After I got to the top with a very long run out...i lowered down and added the last bolt. It was an exciting and memorable experience. Feb 8, 2015