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Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side

Beck's Bet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Candyman TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dogleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euthyphro T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Holly Device T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Personal Space TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Rocks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Candy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rock-a-Lot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Silent But Deadly T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Smithereens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spitwad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top of the Pops T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Young Lust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Keith Cunning, 1979
Page Views: 3,156 total, 18/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 10, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb ascends the left hand edge of the "shorter wall" of Rock Garden Valley that holds the more spectacular lines of Double Dogleg and Split Personality. Still the line does see some traffic and deservedly so. It is a nice and largely juggy warm up. It should be noted that "Shorter Wall" is a relative term and that the perhaps mis-named 'shorter wall' is taller than many of the walls at J-tree, with most of the lines being about 100' or so.

Start in the left hand side of the buttress, stemming a move or two up an A-shaped overhanging dihedral to a good horizontal, then heave up into a crack. Climb the crack up and to the top, passing a wide section about 1/2 way up. The climb may not be appropriate for nervous or beginning leaders unless you take some OW protection.

Up top, place a directional and head for the bolt anchors of Rock Candy (up and right) to belay. Rap with a 60M+ rope to descend.

Protection

This climb is reasonably well protected provided you take a big piece or two. A 4.5 Camalot could be used with a #4 to Sew it up, but with just a single #4 the lead is also 'reasonable'. For climbers solid at the grade, I think most will be comfortable with no wide gear at all, as the route is not very insecure.
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
The start is well protected with bomber .5 BD. Easier than I expected. The rock and jams were fantastic but with JT uncharacteristic juggy face holds. Sewed up well with yellow, red and blue hexes. Oct 17, 2016
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
the upper and lower Rock Garden Valley (Shorter) walls are all NE facing, ie, shady most of the day. the sun does arc across the sky a lil differently in the summer than in the winter, that these walls get morning sun for longer in the summer than in the winter Mar 5, 2016
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
Fully shaded mid-morning this past weekend. Oct 29, 2012
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
 
You can stem around the off-width portion easily on this route. Good fun.

The guidebook says "lots of shade". From the pictures, you can tell this is NOT the case. The wall gets shade in the afternoon. Apr 24, 2012
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.7
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.7
I agree with Larry. This route is a lot of fun, and I personally enjoyed it more than double dogleg. I don't think you need much big gear since the off-width section is short and easy, but a #4 camelot should do fine. Lots in the #2 range though is helpful throughout. May 22, 2009
Jason Shatek  
 
I'm surprised this one doesn't get climbed more often. The crack is great but it has a stiff start! You just have to suck it up and do the first two or three moves. I sort of chimneyed my way up the left side till I could move over. Bring lots of big gear, I recommend doubles of cams 2,3,4. Overall a very good climb. Apr 7, 2005
A person learning to lead should not make this his/her first 5.7. The start may be a bit too much. Either way, whoever leads should place bomber pro to protect the start. It's technically easy; but if you blow it, you may be on a feeding tube forever and ever. May 20, 2004