Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Keith Cunning, 1979
Page Views: 4,319 total · 20/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 10, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This climb ascends the left hand edge of the "shorter wall" of Rock Garden Valley that holds the more spectacular lines of Double Dogleg and Split Personality. Still the line does see some traffic and deservedly so. It is a nice and largely juggy warm up. It should be noted that "Shorter Wall" is a relative term and that the perhaps mis-named 'shorter wall' is taller than many of the walls at J-tree, with most of the lines being about 100' or so.

Start in the left hand side of the buttress, stemming a move or two up an A-shaped overhanging dihedral to a good horizontal, then heave up into a crack. Climb the crack up and to the top, passing a wide section about 1/2 way up. The climb may not be appropriate for nervous or beginning leaders unless you take some OW protection.

Up top, place a directional and head for the bolt anchors of Rock Candy (up and right) to belay. Rap with a 60M+ rope to descend.

Protection

This climb is reasonably well protected provided you take a big piece or two. A 4.5 Camalot could be used with a #4 to Sew it up, but with just a single #4 the lead is also 'reasonable'. For climbers solid at the grade, I think most will be comfortable with no wide gear at all, as the route is not very insecure.

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