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Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side

Beck's Bet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Candyman TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dogleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euthyphro T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Holly Device T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Personal Space TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Rocks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Candy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rock-a-Lot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Silent But Deadly T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Smithereens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spitwad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top of the Pops T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Young Lust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Keith Cunning,1979
Page Views: 2,710 total, 17/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb Double Dogleg to the point where it stars leaning left and then cut right to reach a splitter finger crack. Positive jams and edges work up the face to a thin frictiony move at the top that leads right to the bolted anchors.

Fun moves, good rock and bomber gear are found on this route, but the shortness of the climbing independant of Double Dogleg detracts slightly from the overall quality. Three stars out of five.

Location

Immediately right of Rock Candy is this fine route that should not be confused with another quality route with the same name in the Sheep Pass area.

Protection

Pro to 3", bolted anchor/rap (3/8")
steverett
San Diego, CA
  5.9-
steverett   San Diego, CA
  5.9-
Really fun climb, pretty mellow compared to some other 5.9s in the park. Plenty of gear. Oct 2, 2017
Crackson
  5.9
Crackson  
  5.9
bring small gear! Apr 2, 2017
Climb To Safety
california
 
Climb To Safety   california
 
Top roped this after climbing double dogleg, great route on an even greater wall, can't wait to go back on a warmer day. Feb 15, 2013
Canon
  5.9
Canon  
  5.9
The hardest part may be making the last unprotected friction move to top out. Make sure you place something in the end of the crack! Nov 17, 2012
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.9
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.9
Enjoyed this route a great deal. The crux for us was definetely the split from double dogleg over to the thin crack, although the remainder of the route from that point has its challenges. Enjoy! May 22, 2009
Obi
Portland, OR
  5.9
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.9
Felt the crux were the last few moves onto the slabs. Oct 22, 2006
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
fun! seemed easier than rock candy, but maybe just because it was shorter. Apr 12, 2006
Joseph Lee  
 
Yet another fun route. Too bad it's so short. Nice slab finish. Oct 14, 2005
another fun finger crack. Apr 29, 2003