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Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side

Beck's Bet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Candyman TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dogleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euthyphro T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Holly Device T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Personal Space TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Rocks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Candy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rock-a-Lot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Silent But Deadly T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Smithereens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spitwad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top of the Pops T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Young Lust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jim and Ann Kominski, 1989
Page Views: 563 total · 3/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Apr 19, 2004 with updates
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is a three bolt route on the narrow formation to the left of Spitwad. The crux is at the start. Small stoppers protect the initial moves. I placed three to give plenty of backup. After that, it rolls over and all you'll need are quickdraws. It's a moderately pleasant little climb.

Protection

Quick draws and small wires. The bolts are new from ASCA in 2015.

Photos

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Adam Kimmerly
  5.10a
Adam Kimmerly  
  5.10a
Bouldery start with a bit of a pumpy stance (worse than it looks like it'll be from the ground) to place the initial gear from about 5' off the ground. The crux follows soon after, then smear your way up the grainy slab past three bolts. Walk off to the right to get to the rap anchors for Young Lust or Double Dogleg. A worthy tick if you're in the area and have done the others (or they're busy with other parties) but not the reason you go climb in Rock Garden Valley. Apr 11, 2010
tom donnelly
san diego
  5.10a
tom donnelly   san diego
  5.10a
Old Bolts.

The following is a comment on the 4 bolt route to the left of this: Nice route, but also has old bolts with rusty hangers. Vogel route # 509 ??Felt more like 5.9, not 5.10cAnchor is .6 - 1.6" cams. Nov 8, 2005
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
A decent route on light-colored grain worth doing while waiting for the more varnished routes nearby to open up. May 20, 2004