5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.1 from 220 votes
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft (21 m)|
|FA:||Ed Kaufer and Keith Cunning, 1979|
|Page Views:||9,266 total · 42/month|
|Shared By:||C Miller on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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The climb can be started directly under the first bolt via a large undercling flake (5.10), but the normal start is about 10' to the left, and about halfway to the start of Rock-a-Lot.
Above the flake a thin horizontal crack provides protection to the first bolt. Move up and left to the second bolt where the angle steepens and a thin seam starts (microwires handy here). Pull some thin moves and then hit a finger crack which leans to the right higher before ending below the top. Two more bolts protect fun, positive edges to the top.
Bolted anchor on top with a rap from anchors atop Split Personality.
High quality rock, fun moves and the continuous nature of the climbing make this a standout route of the area. Four stars out of five.