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Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side

Beck's Bet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Candyman TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dogleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euthyphro T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Holly Device T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Personal Space TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Rocks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Candy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rock-a-Lot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Silent But Deadly T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Smithereens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spitwad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top of the Pops T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Young Lust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Ed Kaufer and Keith Cunning, 1979
Page Views: 6,056 total, 38/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The climb can be started directly under the first bolt via a large undercling flake (5.10), but the normal start is about 10' to the left, and about halfway to the start of Rock-a-Lot. Once above the flake a thin horizontal crack provides protection before the first bolt. Easy moves lead up and left to the second bolt where the angle steepens and a thin seam starts (microwires handy here). Pull some thin moves (crux) and then hit a finger crack which leans to the right higher before petering out below the top. Two more bolts protect fun, positive edges which lead right to the top. Bolted anchor on top with a rap from anchors atop Split Personality.

High quality rock, fun moves and the continuous nature of the climbing make this the standout route of the area and one easily led by climbers solid at the grade. Four stars out of five.

Location

This route is located on the attractive face left of an obvious zig-zag crack system (Double Dogleg) on the furthest right portion of the Shorter Wall.

Protection

4 bolts (3/8"), pro to 1.5" (microwires can be useful for the crux section), bolted anchor on top (3/8").
mattyups  
 
Climbed this past weekend, added another 'bolt' midway up the crack. If anyone can get the .2 X2 out and is feeling generous please PM me. Not sure how much those things are going for these days but I can provide beer, hugs, dinner, or whatever else your heart desires. Happy climbing, this route rocks! Oct 16, 2017
Mike Womack
Los Angeles, CA
 
Mike Womack   Los Angeles, CA
 
This is a must do if in the area. I used a BD .3 and .4 and peanuts and was able to sew it up pretty well. Direct start was fun yet thuggy unlike the delicate climbing above. Apr 24, 2017
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
 
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
 
I agree with David S. It's close enough to being direct to start from just to the right of directly below and the climbing makes perfect sense when viewed from there. Above all, it follows the bolted line well. Oct 17, 2016
Stone Adventures
Joshua Tree, CA
Stone Adventures   Joshua Tree, CA
Did the direct start, pretty sketch. Harder than most of the 10A's I have done in the park. Scary runouts. Awesome route though! Jan 17, 2016
David S.
San Francisco, CA
  5.9+
David S.   San Francisco, CA
  5.9+
Did this on TR yesterday. Started up from the right of the undercling, rather than to the left, which everyone else seems to suggest. It was a neat variation, and you can get some solid, but thin, feet on the tiny rail there.

I'd call this a 5.10a anywhere else, but when in Rome... May 25, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9 PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9 PG13
quite good climbing, but probably better as a TR for most who would visit the area. the first bolt is WAY off to the right of the natural line, so far that i probably would gun for the 2nd bolt, but be in groundfall terrain pretty quick.

i watched a dude deck (twice!) on this route trying to get to the first bolt. no thanks. Mar 10, 2014
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.9+ PG13
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.9+ PG13
Yeah - if you lead this from the left side like me, don't forget to clip the first bolt like I did. Was pretty sketched out on a #00 master cam (at the hand traverse before going up) and a sketchy nut before arriving at the second bolt and clipping it. Makes my hands sweat thinking about it... If you clip the first bolt, it probably isn't as rough of a lead mentally. This one was all mental for me, although the movement did get a little thin for a while. May 1, 2012
Vitaliy
  5.9
Vitaliy  
  5.9
The direct start is a strenuous under-cling to a reachy tiny hold with very slippery foot holds. I tried it on TR and failed numerous times, Dave Mayville [too-strong] cruised right through the direct start and said it was just a 10d :) Nov 1, 2011
Stormeh
5.10a PG13
Stormeh  
5.10a PG13
I would say all of 10a, and quite serious as well. When compared to Loose Lady, you have to call this thing 10a, and the pro is worse as well. Very sustained. Great route! Apr 18, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
All of 5.9 and heady. Double C3's are useful. One of my favorites in the park. Feb 18, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
Bloody 'ell Chris "easily led by climbers solid at the grade"? I must be getting old coz' this one gave me heck of time yesterday (6/13/09). Jun 15, 2009
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
 
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
 
I agree, this was our favorite when we stopped by. Definitely deserves the 3 stars in the Vogel guide, perhaps more? May 19, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
The best route on the wall IMO. Jul 25, 2006
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
very fun for a toprope. might be a bit heady for a lead. sustained, long, and continuous. Apr 12, 2006
Pretty stiff for a nine, but a couple of nice moves that will make you think. Feb 14, 2005
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
Excellent quality route, keeps you thinking the whole way. 5.10a IMHO. Jan 29, 2005
I feel 5.9 is a little light for this route. It felt more like 10a to me. It's a fine route, and I think I'll do it again, possibly on a midwinter day when it's snowing and the top-ropers are all huddled in their cribs sucking on their binkies. May 20, 2004
another fun route in this area. Apr 29, 2003