Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Tom Beck 1982
Page Views: 3,159 total · 15/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 10, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This climb ascends the right hand edge of the "shorter wall" of Rock Garden Valley that holds the more spectacular lines of Double Dogleg and Split Personality. The line is pretty good and would be much better were it not for a huge ledge 1/2 way up which interrupts the climbing quite significantly. This line seems to get fewer ascents than the others at the same cliff. It should be noted that "Shorter Wall" is a relative term and that the perhaps mis-named 'shorter wall' is taller than many of the walls at J-tree, with most of the lines being about 100' or so.

Start at the far right-hand side of the buttress, climbing perhaps 10 meters up a handcrack to reach a ledge, tehn continuing up furher in a similar line for the top. Once topped out, move up and left to reach the set of bolt anchors of Split Personality (up and left) to belay. Rap with a 60M rope to descend.

If the lien were more singular, I'd have given it more stars.

Protection

This climb is quite well protected with a few sets of cams, mostly hand-sized. It is a nice and largely bomber handcrack and takes good pro. Running out a few easy sections however, may be the best bet due to the fact that a 15' ledge interrupts the route about 1/2 way up.

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