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Beck's Bet
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.2 from 153
votes
Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side
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Beck's Bet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Candyman TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Double Dogleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Euthenics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Euthyphro T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fortune Cookie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Griffin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Holly Device T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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On the Side TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Personal Space TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pop Rocks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rock Candy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Rock-a-Lot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Silent But Deadly T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Smithereens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spitwad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sugar Pops Variation TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Top of the Pops T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Yi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Young Lust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 34.0215, -116.1777 |
| FA: | Tom Beck 1982 |
| Page Views: | 4,775 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 10, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This climb ascends the right hand edge of the "shorter wall" of Rock Garden Valley that holds the more spectacular lines of Double Dogleg and Split Personality. The line is pretty good and would be much better were it not for a huge ledge 1/2 way up which interrupts the climbing quite significantly. This line seems to get fewer ascents than the others at the same cliff. It should be noted that "Shorter Wall" is a relative term and that the perhaps mis-named 'shorter wall' is taller than many of the walls at J-tree, with most of the lines being about 100' or so.
Start at the far right-hand side of the buttress, climbing perhaps 10 meters up a handcrack to reach a ledge, tehn continuing up furher in a similar line for the top. Once topped out, move up and left to reach the set of bolt anchors of Split Personality (up and left) to belay. Rap with a 60M rope to descend.
If the lien were more singular, I'd have given it more stars.
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