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Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side

Beck's Bet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Candyman TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dogleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euthyphro T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Holly Device T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Personal Space TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Rocks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Candy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rock-a-Lot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Silent But Deadly T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Smithereens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spitwad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top of the Pops T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Young Lust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Tom Beck 1982
Page Views: 2,401 total, 13/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 10, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb ascends the right hand edge of the "shorter wall" of Rock Garden Valley that holds the more spectacular lines of Double Dogleg and Split Personality. The line is pretty good and would be much better were it not for a huge ledge 1/2 way up which interrupts the climbing quite significantly. This line seems to get fewer ascents than the others at the same cliff. It should be noted that "Shorter Wall" is a relative term and that the perhaps mis-named 'shorter wall' is taller than many of the walls at J-tree, with most of the lines being about 100' or so.

Start at the far right-hand side of the buttress, climbing perhaps 10 meters up a handcrack to reach a ledge, tehn continuing up furher in a similar line for the top. Once topped out, move up and left to reach the set of bolt anchors of Split Personality (up and left) to belay. Rap with a 60M rope to descend.

If the lien were more singular, I'd have given it more stars.

Protection

This climb is quite well protected with a few sets of cams, mostly hand-sized. It is a nice and largely bomber handcrack and takes good pro. Running out a few easy sections however, may be the best bet due to the fact that a 15' ledge interrupts the route about 1/2 way up.

Photos

Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
If you run across the ledge real fast, jump into the upper crack section, and forget the ledge ever happened, this is a great jam! Oct 28, 2013
Canon
  5.7
Canon  
  5.7
Good jams, worth doing if in the area knocking out all the other great climbs. Nov 17, 2012
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
I though it was a pretty fun handrack. The ledge kind of screws it up yes, but still good. Feb 6, 2011
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
  5.8
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
  5.8
I agree with the suggestion of a 5.8 rating. Some protection not the greatest, so be advised this might not be the best choice for a new leader. Nov 7, 2009
Joseph Lee  
 
This is another fun route. Cool step across start and long reach past a wide section. The upper crack has a nice section of hands. If you are there, might as well do it. Oct 14, 2005
Not that it's a big deal but I believe the 5.8 rating in Bartlett is correct for this route. It's also an enjoyable climb. May 20, 2004