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Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side

Beck's Bet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Candyman TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dogleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euthyphro T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Holly Device T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Personal Space TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Rocks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Candy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rock-a-Lot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Silent But Deadly T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Smithereens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spitwad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top of the Pops T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Young Lust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jim & Ann Kominski 1989
Page Views: 82 total, 2/month
Shared By: john durr on Jan 27, 2015
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is a two bolt mixed face route, excellent moves and cool climbing, the rock quality is pretty rank but that just adds to the fun!

Start up a nice finger-thin hand crack with good gear until it fades into loose rock, figure out a way to traverse about 10' right to another loose crack making some scrappy moves to a welcome bolt. Ascend more loose grainy flared crack-like face climbing to a committing move up and left to reach another welcome bolt. Grain it out to the top!

Location

This is the second mixed face route about 100 feet left of Spitwad, it is located on a narrow buttress. To descend, scramble off to the east or 4th class west over to the bolted rap anchor above Young Lust.

Protection

A nice selection of cams and stoppers from thin to a #2 (yellow) camelot, plus two new ASCA bolts. Gear anchor hand size cams or wrap a big block.

Photos

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Jeff Scofield
Yorba Linda, CA
Jeff Scofield   Yorba Linda, CA
Fun TR Climb Oct 16, 2017